Once upon a time…
Scratch that. Instead, I should probably begin with “once upon a bajillion tourists!” The fact is, the Montmartre area of Paris is something to behold! Each year, thousands upon thousands depend on the charming arrondissment as they search out it’s former life as an artist’s colony. It was this rag tag colony that created Montmartre in the first place. in the latter half of the 19th century, it was not even part of Paris proper. It was known as a poor man’s tax haven which made it ideal for the starving artists like Van Gogh, Manet, and Renoir. Today, it is a pedestrian zone that is capped by the amazing Sacre Couer. The problem is the sheer volume of visitors makes this appealing district hard to enjoy and navigate.
It seems that every storefront is geared not toward artisans and their craft but toward souvenirs and bad gelato. Don’t get me wrong, there are a few storefronts that honor the past and sell local products from a newer generation of artists. But, for the most part, this area is full of people who are very interested in selling you a “I heart Paris” t-shirt. So, should you make the trip up to the top? Should you even bother? The answer is maybe. If you are interested in any of the following things, you should consider heading uphill to explore.
- The Sacre Coeur was built in 1919 but looks shiny and new. The stone that was used in the construction is special and will continue to be bright for centuries to come. The interior is lovely and well worth the time to see. However, take note of the fact that you may not sit in front of the alter just to look. That area is for prayer only as this is a working church. Just as famous as the church are the stairs in front of it. These iconic stairs are a popular place to take in sunset over the city. For convenience, the tram next to the stairs can get you up and down with everyone else for a nominal fee.
- The Musee de Montmartre is the former home of, among others, Pierre August Renoir. After going through admission, stroll through the garden to the house and enjoy three floors of life in Montmartre. The highlight? The lovely cafe in the garden is a delightful stop along the way.
- Musee de Vie Romantique or the museum of the Romantic Life, is one of three literary museums in Paris. This peek into the world of grand Salons during post revolution times is a great glimpse at the glory days of the Montmartre movement. Look for heavy weight artists to be featured as you wander.
- The fabric district and the Montmartre book store is a secret hideaway just adjacent to the Sacre Coeur steps. Much like New York’s garment district, the grand dames of the fashion industry reside on these back streets. Consider perusing five floors of fabrics and notions in every color and style imaginable. While the stores are not much to look at from the outside, the inside is full of fashion treasure! The centerpiece of this small but mighty industrial area is the…
- La Librairie de la Halle Saint-Pierre is part book shop, part cafe, part exhibition space, and all uniquely Montmartre. This icon of local life is often overlooked by visitors but deserves a go for those interested in the literary and design scene. Facing the stairs, you’ll see this relic of the industrial age just off to the right.
