Headed North
Ah, Ireland! Land of so many shades of green, they’ve written songs about them! Most visitors focus their time on the southern half of the Island but the North has some amazing sites and experiences that are worth the visit. Let’s look over the “best of” list and check in on how to string it all together.
Getting from here to there…
Getting into and out of Northern Ireland by air is pretty simple. Both Belfast and Dublin are there for easy access but the are very different experiences.
Dublin Airport: is organized like any other European airport except that there are no trains to connect to the city center. Instead look for public buses and a large taxi que to do the job. But probably the most important thing to remember is that you need to get to the airport EARLY! That’s because you need to clear US customs BEFORE YOUR FLIGHT!!!
Belfast Airport: is a much smaller operation. As it is part of the British commonwealth, look for those policies to be enforced. Additionally, there is no pre-flight customs at this airport. To get to either Belfast or Derry by public transport, bus shuttles are available in front of the terminal.
I’m still chanting to myself “driver in the middle, driver in the middle” to myself after driving all over Ireland! It is certainly one of the most stressful pieces of traveling to the Emerald Isle. Truth be told, driving is definitely going to be on your Irish sight seeing list unlike so many other countries in Europe. In short, there just isn’t a ton of efficient public transport to handle all the visitors. Don’t get me wrong, trains are available from midsize cities but most are local. The exceptions here are connections from Dublin to Cork, Galway, and Belfast. Otherwise, local trains connect some areas but not all of them especially on the Wild Atlantic Way.
Navigating by rental car: Rent a Car after your city stays The rental car lot is large and easy to navigate. Look for the agents there to give you good driving maps and great tips for amazing things to do. Be sure to have a good chat as you check in and get your car.
Leaving via ferry: While leaving by air might be the very first thing that you think of, consider making a graceful exit by ferry. Boats leave each day for Scotland and Wales where you can continue on your travel adventures. Our favorite? Stenna Lines has a 2 1/2 hour route to Cairnryan, Scotland. After a great trip, you can easily rent a car to start a drive north toward Glasgow, Edinburgh and the Highlands.
Consider the National Trust sites pass for your Northern Ireland entries. Knowing that it’s the British Trust that controls the Northern Ireland sites. Additionally, you may find that strategically choosing whether planning Belfast first or last on your trip is helpful. This decision can be based on your car rental needs, airport choices or where you plan to go next.
Belfast Town is one of Europe’s second cities. It doesn’t have too many big draws but it makes up for it in its can do work-a-day attitude. The biggest draw is the Titanic Museum but the best kept secret might be the tour you can take at Crumlin Road Jail.
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- Titanic Museum uses the footprint of the fated ship’s building site to tell the story of the ship and also the story of Belfast. It is a state of the art museum but it is often crowded. This is a definite pre-book site.
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- City Hall smack in the middle of Belfast is a short tour of the city’s centerpiece. Of particular interest are the stained glass windows that chronicle Belfast culture.
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- Black Taxi Tours showcase the “troubles”. Ireland’s march for independence was and is a rough one. These tours, often conducted by people who were in the thick of things in the 70’s and 80’s give a unique insight into the issues and the people who were trying to find peace in such a beautiful peace.
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- Carrick a Rede Rope Bridge is due north from Belfast on the Antrim coast. This area is where many of the big draws reside including this small rope bridge which connects a small island with the mainland over the North Atlantic. The views are spectacular and the puffins that call the little island home are happy to welcome anyone brave enough to cross over. Considering that this bridge which was constructed to hang a net for fishers, it is quite the feat!
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- Giant’s Causeway is the marquee event here. this amazing outcropping of hexagonal rocks is quite the sight to see even if you aren’t a geologist. Plan on spending about two to three hours to walk, hike, climb, and take care the views. There’s also, wait for it, a great gift shop. Just about a mile away is a great place for lunch called The Smuggler’s Inn. You can round out a day by touring the Bushmills Distillery which is close by.
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- Dunluce Castle is further west and a great stop on the way to Derry. These great coastal ruins take about 1-2 hours to peruse and enjoy.
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- Derry is a true border town. It has one foot in Northern Ireland but the rest in the Republic. One of the last walled cities in Europe, Derry offers a unique perspective of those troubles we mentioned. The interesting mural walk is well worth the time and it can be paired with a look at those walls and fortifications. Derry also happens to be an amazing food town.
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- Donegal Cliffs The Wild Atlantic Way on the western coast is capped by County Donegal. This barren area is stunningly beautiful in its starkness. As you continue south in this area, it gets a bit greener again and it also affords the visitor a stunning hike at the Donegal cliffs called Slieve League. Higher than the Cliffs of Moher, these cliffs offer a quieter more immersive experience especially if you like to hike.
Last but not least, we leave you with two book picks to put this part of the world into a little context. Both non-fiction, each of these picks explains realities that plagued this island for centuries. Knowing this kind of history speaks to the people you’ll meet today. And these people, well, they are some of the most charming and lovely people you’ll ever meet.
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- Churchill and Ireland by Paul Bew is a look at the decisions that were made in London as Ireland became its own country.
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- The Magdalene Girls by VS Alexander is the story of how young girls who found themselves in trouble handled their situation and the consequences that ruled their lives in a brutal way.