Tag: #travelitaly

Five Reservations to Make Before You Touch Down Rome.

There are two kinds of travelers, we’ve all heard, the pre planners that print out the itinerary and the take it as it comes line waiters. Rome presents an issue for each of these travelers as it comes in extremes, either you need a reservation months in advance or the venue is free and you can waltz in whenever you want. So what’s a traveler to do? We’ve got your top five booking covered here. (Don’t worry we’ve got the Vatican covered right here!)

a stairway on a church facade
Photo by Natasa Dav on Pexels.com

The Colosseum and Forum

While this site certainly finds itself on the bucket list of most travelers who plan to see Rome, we’ve got to be honest and tell you it’s the first place we would skip if we had to cut something from our itinerary. But, it’s no wonder considering all of the legends that surround this first sports arena of sorts. But, make no mistake, while the ancient Romans were able to fill and empty the place in five minutes, efficiency plays no role in today’s tours.

Bonus: At The Basilica of San Clemente, there are three levels of ruins to explore under the simple church with an anchor. The underground ruins are a cash only business and tend not to have a big line anyway.

abduction of proserpina scultpure in galleria borghese in rome
Photo by Anna Mitsu on Pexels.com

The gallery is probably the second most famous art collection in the city, falling in line behind The Vatican. With works of art like Apollo and Daphne, the Borghese is only available by reservation. Plan on using two hours to fully explore the entire gallery.

Bonus: If you are looking to get a few minutes of fresh air, it’s really worth the time to rent a few bikes and get out of town on the Appian Way. This historic road was the main thoroughfare from the south and into ancient Rome.

The Pantheon

Unlike years past, you need to buy a ticket to go to Rome’s oldest church, The Pantheon. Located very close to Piazza Navona, the Pantheon is a true architectural wonder. With a perfect oculus in the dome and proportions that seem impossible, it’s amazing to think that it still stands, in quite good condition I might add, after almost 1900 years. Although, to avoid the lines, get there early or right at closing as the crowds are the thinnest then.

Bonus: Take a bit of a walk in this area for some other amazing churches that have world class art. Within a 5 minute walk, you can find Santa Maria Sopra Minerva with Michelangelo, Chiesa Saint Luigi dei Fancesi with Caravaggio, Chiesa Santa Maria della Pace with Rafael, and so many more.

photo of people walking in front of pantheon roman temple in rome italy
Photo by Griffin Wooldridge on Pexels.com

Galerie Doria Pamphlij

The Doria and Pamphlij names have been a Roman staple for over 6 centuries yet they are often over-looked by visitors. The dynasty is full of political figures, royalty, and, most recently, a saint in the making! Their incredible central villa in Rome is now a world class museum that rivals the halls of Versailles. Located right on the Via Del Corso, it is easy to pass right by this fancy facade but, trust us! Get the ticket and walk around to enjoy the glitz and glam of Roman society!

Bonus: The gallery is in the vicinity of the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps which are best seen very early in the morning.

Lastly, don’t forget your rail ticket out of town!

Like any good Roman from years past, it’s a really good idea to have an exit strategy! Whether you are taking the train to the airport or another part of Italy, book ahead of time so that you have all the information you need to make your transition smooth. The romance of Rome is undeniable! And as long as you are well prepared, you’ll enjoy every minute of that Dolce Vita!

Bonus: Don’t discount the gift shops of Rome. As we all know, pretty much every tourist site dumps you into a gift shop. I happen to find lots of them fun in this part of the world. There are some real treasures in them! My favorite souvenir? A glow in the dark Virgin Mary that I found at San Giovanni en Laterno.

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Florence and Tuscany

brown dome building at daytime

The year is 1500 and the following people are alive and thriving in Europe- Martin Luther, Christopher Columbus, Henry VII, and from Florence: The powerful Medicis, Amerigo Vespucci, Leonardo DaVinci, Niccolo Maccheavelli, Lorenzo the Magnificent and his son Pope Leo X and Michaelangelo. It’s the height of the culture explosion known as the renaissance and Florence is its epicenter. Today, Florence is jam packed with all of the stories of this telenovela from 1500 so, Let’s dig in!

aerial photography of city building

Florence reminds me a lot of Paris in that there is simply no way to see everything this city has to offer in one go. I think you would literally exhaust yourself and collapse before you got to it all. In all, there are five marquee sites and countless second tier destinations that can keep you busy for weeks. This means you are going to have to be super picky about what you choose to do.

The headline of any visit to Florence is ART ART ART sponsored by everyone’s favorite power hungry family: The Medicis! Being the local big deal family (think Kardashians and Hiltons) these uber rich locals had money and plenty of it. They set out to enrich their lives by investing in the newest trend: art. Their legacy of patronage is what makes Florence, well, Florence! You can find their mark on the:

  • Duomo: Unless you are there for faith or you are an architecture buff, taking a stroll around the Duomo will suffice! To see the inside, you can go to mass on Sundays to get the full effect. 
  • Accademia: 
  • Uffizi
  • Ponte Vecchio

brown bridge

There are a couple of notes that could help any traveler on their trip through Florence. For example, Tuscan bread tastes very different than the Italian bread we are used to. In fact, it is not made with salt. This may be a point of pride for the region but it can be a surprise for the visitor. It also may be an expense that you skip. Additionally, you may find the restaurants in the very touristy areas don’t take customers who want to stop and have drinks during certain times.

Shopping wise, Florence is filled to the brim with lovely little shops full of artisans that create everything from paper crafts to amazing leather goods. Get ready to get your shop on! One word of caution, the old market area has been overtaken by street stalls. These hawkers unfortunately cover up the lovely shops behind them. One of our favorites is iMedici which is one of the original leather shops in the area. You may want to walk on the original sidewalks behind these pop ups (which are quite frankly unsightly!) and shop the OG stores.

silhouette photo of people standing inside building

Speaking of the central market area, the central market has been converted from it’s former use of all food stalls to two levels. The bottom is the traditional market stalls while the upper level has touristy eatery stalls. It’s not our favorite in the high season but it’s better in the shoulder seasons. One of our favorite restaurants is Zaza’s which is located just outside the main market building. Try the artichokes. Just a few doors down is another old school Florence haunt, the Lavenderia Manfredi laundry service. Considering Florence’s central location whether you are exploring from the north or the south, this easy stop could fit perfectly into your plans. Just be sure to drop off at the start of your Florence stay as the proprietor will give you a time to pick up. No negotiations. 

Accommodations in Florence can get very pricy especially when certain seasonal events are underway. This includes Fashion week. Beware of your timing because a few days in one direction or another could make all the difference to your budget. Our pick? Hotel Pendini!

assorted cakes in cake glass rack

Getting around Florence is pretty easy and there are lots of pedestrian areas that link together the major sites. However, if you are looking to get an overview, you may want to book a golf cart tour that can give you the lay of the land and help you prioritize which sites you want to see and skip.

Getting out of Florence is just as easy particularly by train. The main train station is just to the north of the city center and easily connects to all the major points by high speed train. Local trains also connect to a bevy of Tuscan town. The day trips are fascinating and plentiful:

  • Sienna
  • Pisa
  • Lucca
  • An agriturismo
  • Assisi
  • Montepulciano
  • The Cinque Terre
  • San Marino

And so many more! Florence offers one last gem that is easily overlooked. Hidden amongst the streets are tiny wooden windows that were constructed during the plague. These windows were made so that people could still buy wine without coming in contact with others. Covid put them back on the map and kept some of them in business. So, if you see a little door as you are walking around, don’t hesitate to knock and see if you get a glass of wine in response!  

woman wearing goggles wearing necklace painting on arched wall

If you are looking to get in the Tuscan mood, enjoy this quick read that showcases this area. Murder in Florence by TA Williams is a nice easy read. The author certainly takes you down the streets of Florence and gives you a great overview of the city!

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Agriturismos: Italy’s best kept secret.

green grass field during daytime

I was walking through a lovely vineyard with a local vintner enjoying the North Italian sunshine when he stopped and asked me a very abrupt question. “How did you find this place?” he asked me in wonder. At first, I didn’t know how to take his question but then it occurred to me that he simply meant that he rarely saw Americans visit the area. Americans, it turns out, do not know about Italy’s best kept secret: agriturismos!

That walk got me thinking about how to best introduce the agriturismo. Simply put, agriturismos are bed and breakfasts that are on working farms. Oh, don’t be fooled! the word farm can be very deceiving here! Instead of thinking about corn or crops, shift your perspective to vineyards and olive orchards! Italy does that, it shifts your perspective when it comes to the everyday things and makes you take things in through a different lens.

Why are they a great alternative to other lodgings?

Probably the quickest answer is to say price. Most agriturismos charge a mere fraction of their hotel competitor’s rates and often have such affordable pricing that they charge by the couple. But that’s not the only reason to look into this great option.

What can you do there?

While every agriturismo strives to offer you a good relaxing getaway, many offer experiences that are quintessentially Italian. Ranging from simple hiking paths to pasta making, expect a variety of things to try and enjoy. The last two agriturismos we visited offered wine tasting and truffle hunting with the farm dog.

How do I build time into my itinerary for it?

We are huge advocates for using a travel cycle. Consider powering through a few days then using a getaway like an agriturismo as a built in vacation in the middle of your travels. Giving you time to recuperate and get ready for the next leg of your adventure, the stay here is down time well used and so unique to Italy.

Are there any drawbacks?

There are very few Agriturismos available by public transport meaning you are going to need a driver or a rental. That said, some will offer to pick up at a local train station. These accommodations are not in the city center close to the big draws. However, they work really well as a homebase to string together some day trips. Think Sienna, Pisa, and Montepulciano as a good example.

Sometimes, you may wind up in an agriturismo that is not geared toward your tastes and you need to be careful as you choose but considering the amazing amount of choices, you are bound to run into one that feel like a good fit.

Agriturismos follow a lot of rules and may not be able to provide everything you need be prepared for that. For example, the Tuscan area will not serve a Coke Zero but will offer you a local fizzy beverage in place of that. 

rows of green plants

Regardless of the area you want to explore, an agriturismo could be the very thing that you are looking for! There isn’t better service in Italy than an agriturismo!

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Milan Day Trip

brown concrete building during daytime

Milano

Tucked up in the north of Italy is the banking and fashion capitol of the country, Milan. Probably most famous for three things, Milan may not constitute a big ticket stay but it can be an ideal day trip. Now hold your fashionista horses for a moment! Normally when we say that a destination makes a good day trip, we often include it as a great launch or a graceful exit from a longer excursion. This is not the town for that as the international airport is a very expensive 45 minute ride away! Very expensive. 

Instead, navigate Milan by rail. It’s an easy ride in and out of Venice or Florence and is a great launching pad into France’s Riviera region. The main train station has its own story that speaks to the erratic history of the turn of the century and the socialist fervor that enveloped this very new consolidated country. Be sure to take in the massive main hall that was built to make you fell small. That said, what brings the first time visitor to Milan?

Leonardo da Vinci head bust

 

There’s a lot here. In order to make this a credible day trip, focus on the big three. The Duomo, its neighbor the Galleria and the iconic Last Supper. Economically, it can be strung together in about three hours making a mid morning arrival and a late lunch a perfect day. The Duomo also offers a spectacular rooftop experience that lets you meander through the life size statuary and ponder the massive undertaking to actually get it built.

Reserved ticket options also exist for draws like the famous La Scala Opera House and its adjoining museum. If you are not an opera enthusiast, check out the amazing Cimitero Monumentale di Milano. This amazing outdoor space is full of the most spectacular funerary art rivaling, no surpassing that of Per Lachaise in Paris. Additionally, the local Renaissance family, the Sforzas, have their Castello on full display to round out the top draw choices. 

a large ornate building with a large clock on the top

If Milan is on your list for just a few things, making it a day trip is totally worth it.  The main train station is more than a thirty minute walk so, taking a taxi into the main piazza will be a must but other than that, Milano is an easy breezy visit from Florence or Venice.

 

 

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Venice 101

blue and white boat on water near concrete bridge during daytime

Venice is an all star destination that comes with its own set of  travel challenges. But, wow, are those challenges worth taking on as Venice does not disappoint! Home of world class museums, Michelin worthy food, and an atmosphere that charms the socks off of everyone that steps off a boat, Venice is everything a traveler is looking for. So, how does a true traveler approach this historical icon? Here are our top takes on the myths and realities of the city of canals.

Myth No. 1: Venice is packed every Summer.

Yes…. and no. To be fair, all of Italy is packed every Summer but Venice had plenty of breathing room with the right strategies. For example, there is never a wait for a table at lunch and a simple reservation ensures that dinner plans are not kept waiting at all. Honestly, the two areas where crowds are prevalent: at the basilica and on the Rialto. Other than that, good booking habits ensured that there are no waits at all even in the high season.

concrete building near body of water

Reality No. 1: Transportation is going to cost- big time!

Probably the thing that will shock any traveler the most is the monopoly on the transportation system. Between the water taxis, the iconic gondoliers, and the vaporetto, it’s hard to fathom how much is shelled out just to get around. The harsh reality is that it’s pretty hard to skirt that help. It’s an easy city to lose your way and the labyrinth of private docks and narrow passages can sometimes need a helping hand- especially with luggage! Expect a gondola ride to run between $85.00 and $130.00, a vaporetto pass to run about $25.00 for a few days, and a water taxi transfer to run about $75.00 per person with luggage. In short, they have the boats and they know that you don’t.

Myth No. 2: The water in Venice is tidal and that makes it smell.

This couldn’t be further from the truth! It may surprise you but the water of the lagoon is pretty clean and does not have that over salty, tidal smell at all. Regardless of the time of tide, expect the water to be pretty choppy on the big lagoon and rather peaceful on the back canals. Simply put, the water, in every direction, is sublime.

flood in Venice Italy

Reality No. 2: The water isn’t always sublime.

Venice’s treasure can also become it’s nemesis. During certain parts of the year, the dreaded Aqua Alta, or tall water, floods certain parts of the islands. It has become so famous because it floods the very popular Piazza San Marco. Many have seen the fantastical photos of of the square flooded with raised wooden walkways. however, don’t expect the entire island to be underwater at these times, there’s plenty of dry land to enjoy.

Myth No. 3: Google maps is the best way to get around Venice.

If there is one thing that locals have let me know, it’s that google maps will not get you from point A to point B. In fact, google maps seems to be the number one way to get lost in Venice. Instead, rely on local directions and paper maps to make getting from one place to another easier. Getting your luggage to your hotel simply isn’t fun when you have to lug it over three extra bridges and down a dead end passageway. Trust us.

potted petaled flowers on black metal rack

 

Reality No. 3: You will get lost.

There is no way around it! You will get lost in the labyrinth of narrow pedestrian streets and shady alleyways that lace this city together. The good news is that Venice is an island and you can only go so far before you dead end at the water. The better news is that there are two sure fire ways to help you get out of this jam. First, duck into a local business and pick up their business card. Often, the back has a map on it that will help you out! Also, if you find yourself a little too far from familiar territory, use the direction signs on the corners of bigger intersections that will point you toward the bigger sites like the Rialto Bridge or Piazza San Marco. The bottom line is that is important to wander throughout the neighborhoods. Get lost! It’s Okay.

Myth No. 4: Everything is crowded all the time.

True, the big draws like The Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Square and the basilica and, The Rialto Bridge all make for crowded, pick pocket friendly destinations. However, there are a few times when you can find these beauties a little calmer. Book tickets for anything on Piazza SanMarco as early as possible. If the Basilica gets a bit overwhelming, head for the back right hand corner and enjoy the little museum and rooftop upstairs for a small fee. Here, you can see the magnificent horses that grace the roof. This means before the cruise ship groups. Check out the bridge after your dinner and dessert as the crowds really thin out and you can see it lit up. woman sitting on concrete surface

Reality No. 4: There are plenty of out of the way places to enjoy.

As popular as Venice is, many people don’t walk past the big sites and explore the out of the way, charming neighborhoods that lace the city together. Take a little time to walk away from the crowds so that you can enjoy a few of the quieter moments. That’s right. Walk the other neighborhoods. Take some time to duck into a church and see a masterpiece. Wander into a local shop that sells nothing but tassels. Peruse a bookshop. Sit at a cafe and enjoy an Aperol spritz. Wander for the sake of wandering.

Myth No. 5: Location doesn’t matter: it’s all an island.

Not true. It can affect price and the amount of time it takes to get somewhere. This can work to your advantage though! If you are willing to add in a few extra steps, lovely accommodations are available for a better price. Additionally, menus further away from Piazza San Marco are small, more authentic, and often come with a less touristy price tag.

yellow and blue concrete building

Reality No. 5: Hotel rates are based on their proximity to the water.

Star systems that rate hotels in Europe are common enough but Venice has its own set of standards that other cities just don’t have to consider. For example, five star hotels must have a private dock on the waterways regardless of any other amenities. This means that a three star hotel could actually be nicer and cheaper than a four star hotel. Our pick for a mid range hotel with all that Venice charm? Hotel Novociento. Family run with a great location, it can’t be beat!

 

 

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