It’s me Alex! I’m totally addicted to everything in Europe and I bet you are looking forward to enjoying the art, history, food and people that make this number one travel destination such a draw.
Europe is an icon of the travel world. With so many places to choose from and so many details to consider, any traveler can become overwhelmed! Fear not Euro-traveler! We are here to answer the most important questions! Let’s make your trip to Europe plan perfect. If you are just getting started, we highly recommend checking out our first Europe 101 post and podcast to get your basic plans started.
What can I do to make my trip to Europe better?
Hundreds of destinations and thousands of experiences await anyone traveling to Europe and the best advice we have is to go with your gut and create a balance of activities that you know you will truly enjoy. We love to share our ideas to help you decide if an icon or smaller experience is just right for you. With so many details to consider, here’s our list of starting line tips to make your plans work for you!
When considering booking an Airbnb, be sure to check out if the owner is local instead of a corporation that has a resident manager. It puts money back into the local economy. Ask your Airbnb if they have bikes or other equipment to use. Airbnb is also taking donations to help out Ukrainian refugees so, if you can, consider donating a night or two.
Driving a standard can be one of the biggest cost savers in Europe (or anywhere for that matter). The reality of rental car pricing means that more efficient cars like standards are cheaper to rent. Learn to drive the standard!!
Be mindful of Spring events surrounding Holy week. Many festivities and closures could put a damper on your best laid plans and create quite a hiccup. Conversely, seek them out! They are fun!
Be a responsible shopper and always buy local especially when you are looking for travel souvenirs. Check out where things have been manufactured and only reinvest money into the local economy. There’s no reason to make someone on the other side of the world money.
Look up and go down! Europe is full of so much! As you make your way through your trip, be sure to check out Europe’s fascination with ceilings. Then again, plan a few excursions to see what’s under your feet. Here are a few examples: in Rome, look up at all the church ceilings, in Edinburgh, check out the cool closes, in Paris explore the sewer museum, in Nuremberg learn the history of the WWII art bunkers, and in London, take a ride on the mail rail.
Are hop on hop off busses worth it?
Yes and no. Hop on, hop off busses are incredibly popular and there are a few cities where we think they are totally worth it. On the other hand, there are quite a few cities where they clog up the roads and make life miserable. We think that so many choices come down to whether or not there is a good reason to take the bus other than just ride around. Here are our picks and why:
Amsterdam: the canals are far better to get around
Munich: bikes or a bike taxi are a better choice
What are the best city passes in Europe?
It’s a decision we go back and forth on often. Is it worth buying the big city museum pass or should we skip it? Our rule of thumb is if you are staying for more than three days and you are attending at least three venues that are included in the pass, then there is a good chance that a museum pass is for you. We do, however, have some favorites:
Paris City Pass: It covers hundreds of places both big and small including The Louvre and Versailles. It does NOT cover the Eiffel Tower.
London Oyster Pass: Everything that’s not part of the Royal Household including transport.
The Vatican: If you want to see anything past St. Peter’s Basilica, you NEED this ticket!
Amsterdam City Pass: Van Gogh and the Rijksmuseum are both included making it well worth the price.
What tickets do I need to get before going to Europe?
As much as we would all like to just hop on a plane and wing it, the truth is that some of the most popular venues sell out weeks and months in advance. Here are some of the most popular as well as some popular places that really don’t need pre-planning.
Ireland, the Wild Atlantic Way awaits and the public transport in this area is not that great. It’s time to drive on the other side of the road.
Bavaria, don’t get us wrong, German trains are super great. But, driving these back roads lets you stay on your own time schedule and, quite frankly, they are super fun to drive!
Tuscany, a car is certainly needed to explore this countryside. Use the great trains to get you close then pick up a rental near the train station.
Normandy, you can also pick up a rental at the Bayeaux train station and then explore the coastline on your own time. This means that you are not depending on public transport to get you to the most important sites.
Scottish Highlands, yes there are trains but like Ireland, Normandy, and Bavaria, a car will allow you to coast through the countryside at your own speed.
6 last tips about very specific places:
Lots of little tips can help you feel more comfortable as you travel. For example, using “international” words like photo and toilet can be far more productive than saying picture or restroom (isn’t that a room where you rest?!). Here are some more little gems that might apply to your next European adventure:
Bullfights in the Azores do not kill the bulls! It’s an ethical way to experience this culture.
Ah, the Emerald Isle! Americans stamp their passports here more than any other country. Why? Because there is simply nothing like the charm and friendliness of Ireland. The Irish are famous for their hospitality and “come join us” attitude. It’s this amazing spirit that allows for so many opportunities to learn and enjoy. The nation’s capital, Dublin, is full of amazing sites and experiences. But, what is actually worth it? We’re here to tell you what to get to fast, what to pass on, and what to see instead. So, pull up a chair, pour yourself a drink, and let’s get to the craic!
Listen in to our newest podcast to keep traveling in Ireland!
The storehouse experience is literally the most visited tourist attraction in the country. Spoiler alert: they do not make beer here. They also do not make whiskey on Bow St. when you visit Jameson’s Distillery. I know!!!!! I’m sure the beer and whiskey enthusiasts would love it but if that is not your cup of tea, consider whether your time is worth it.
Verdict: Pass on Ireland’s, number one tourist draw. Instead hit up the Smithwick’s tour in Kilkenny and the Jameson’s distillery in Cork.
The story of this illuminated manuscript is one of legends. From the age of Saints and Scholars, monks toiled over the pages to create this work of art which is now beautifully enshrined in the grand library at Trinity College. The setting is gorgeous the exhibit is first class. But if you don’t know why monks coloring pages in a bible is important, is this for you?
Verdict: Pass if it’s not your thing. Go if you are enamored by art that was created with love under such dire circumstances. Above all, know the story.
Religion can be a touchy topic in Ireland. While troubles were certainly centered in Belfast for years, make no mistake, Dublin was the original epicenter of uprising. What’s this got to do with churches? Many Irish Americans go to pay their respects to their Catholic ancestors who left Erin’s green shores on coffin ships during the famine. These are not their churches. In fact, they are not Catholic churches at all! Don’t get me wrong, they are stunning. However, their architecture is easily found and centered in places like London. Is it worth your precious time?
Verdict: Pass, unless churches and their architecture are your thing. For those of you looking honor your Catholic roots, check in at Our Lady of Knock Basilica or Croagh Patrick in the west.
Speaking of your Irish roots, so many visitors strive to understand the journey of there to here. In fact, the umber one reason people visit Ireland is to trace their roots! Dublin has heard you all and EPIC is certainly the place for you. This modern immigration museum traces the history of the Irish population throughout the world and strives to connect you to your heritage and culture.
Verdict: A must! If you are looking for a place to start understanding your roots, this is stop number one. Leave with the name of a town in a county and set out to find your people.
What 1776 is to Americans is what 1916 is to the Irish. It was here at the main general post office that 16 brave men started taking action towards British independence. In short, the story of a free Ireland starts here with the Easter Rising.
Verdict: A must! To go here is to understand Ireland. There are no substitutes for this impactful piece of history.
Once you finish at the GPO, head towards Kilmainham. The jail that housed those 16 men until they were all executed by the British authorities. The story is powerful and the building is an interesting mix of tragedy and splendor. you may even recognize some of the areas from famous movies.
Verdict: Top of my list! If you see nothing else in Dublin, see this! History buffs, proud patriots, architecture hounds, and movie maniacs will all connect.
If there is one word that should be central to your travels in Ireland, it should be storytelling. And while pub crawls in the US tend to be full of uncontrollable debauchery, this is not the case in Ireland. Yes, you’ll have a drink, yes, you’ll go from pub to pub, but that’s where the similarities end. Pub crawls showcase, music, storytelling, dance, literature, history and more. They are a super fun way to get your bearings on the town and enjoy all aspects of culture.
Verdict: Certainly! Isn’t this why you came to Ireland anyway? Find a pub crawl to match your interests. If you can think it up, it probably exists!
Looking to keep this list at your fingertips? Listen in to our podcast right here!
The castle on Dame St. is a conference center, an administrative government building and a tourist attraction. With ornate English state rooms, there is a bit to see with the required tour guides. At 700 years old, there’s no doubt the castle has tons of stories and I’m all for that!
Verdict: Pass, Ireland is full of lots of castles, is this really the one you want to see? Wait for Kilkenny Castle and Blarney Castle. Then stay the night at a private castle found in many places including Air B and B. Better yet, try out fancy schmancy Ashford Castle from the Guinness Family.
The two major streets of Dublin, each has quite a distinct purpose. Look towards O’Connell Street to give you a sense of history and Grafton Street to get your shop on. You are bound to wind up here for a bevy of reasons, just enjoy!
Verdict: Sure! You’ll enjoy both in equal measure.
It’s time to get your sport on! Choose a stripy scarf and join in the team spirit. It really doesn’t matter what side you root for, just enjoy the fun like a temporary local. If there is no game scheduled, take advantage of the stadium tours which wind up being far more interesting than first meets the eye.
Verdict: Have some fun! Cheer along with modern Ireland.
Kitchy? Yup. Full of tourists? Uh-huh. So-so dinner? True. Go anyway! This is a great, old school first night stop. Get a table close to the stage so your mashed potatoes clatter in time to the dancer’s feet.
Verdict: Yes, only if you have a sense of humor and you’re looking to unwind a little. It’s a great stop to help get rid of your jet lag. Otherwise pass for one of the more serious options above.
I love Irish humor. And this might have been one of the funniest stops I’ve ever made. St. Michan’s is an active church with a little bit of a skeleton in the closet. Each day, visitors can take a look down in the crypt at the amazingly preserved residents. What makes it so much fun? The guy taking you on the tour has a great Scooby-doo quality that just can’t be ignored.
Verdict: Enjoy the storytelling with no crowds then hit the pub afterwards to reflect on the surreal experience! It’s a quick stop to fit in.
Dublin, above all else, is a working city. With the River Liffey running through it to create north and south banks, getting out on the water may seem like a fun time. but make no mistake, the banks are not filled with charming sites or historical buildings. Instead, you get a great look at the back side of the studio space U2 use to record some music.
Verdict: Pass. The WWII duck boats are unique but it’s not worth the time to make the splash.
There’s no doubt that Ireland is connected to the grumpy little fellows along with fairies and banshees. This lo tech stop will have the kids finding that ever important storytelling aspect of Irish culture. Make no mistake though, Americans link leprechauns to the Irish far more than the Irish do! (The same goes for green beer and 4 leaf clovers.)
Verdict: Take the kids, pass with the teens, get a pint with the adults.
When all is said and done…
Dublin is a dynamic springboard to a country full of unbelievable things! Northern Ireland, The Wild Atlantic Way, and Southern Counties await you. Be sure to balance your time and not put all of your eggs in one Dublin basket. Enjoy with balance. Dublin can be enjoyed in about 3 to 4 days.
Use these apps to hear stories about all of the different public art throughout town. Try, also, the 1916 historical walking tour.
Ahhh, Paris! What makes this city of lights so addicting? Is it the artistic light? Is it the curated café culture? Perhaps it’s the storied art that graces museum after museum. Then again, the shopping is world class. Whether it’s the picturesque parks or the charming arrondissements, Paris, never ever disappoints.
Truth be told, you can spend three days, three weeks, or three years in Paris and never get to take in everything that the city has to offer! With 20 neighborhoods and hundreds of points of interest, Paris is a never ending amusement park of history and culture for every sort of traveler. Additionally, Paris is a joy no matter what time of year you plan to visit. So, let’s dig in to the planning logistics that will make your trip to Paris all that it can be.
Coming In For A Landing
Flights from the States tend to clear customs by 8 a.m., so with a strong exit plan, the day will be yours to enjoy from noon on. Paris’ legendary Charles DeGaul Airport is about an hour from the city center and every traveler needs to make plans for a clear exit from the airport. CDG offers quite a few ways to get into the city center. The most economical (and sweaty) way is to lug your bags on the famed Metro in terminal two or three and get yourself to the busy Gare Du Nord. From this hub in the 10th arrondissement, the local Metro trains fan out to most areas.
While certainly economical, I think a standard Parisian taxi is the best bet as the industry has been regulated and the fee is exactly the same regardless of the car you get. Simply line up at the queue and grab the next car in line. Expect to pay about $80.00 for door to door and luggage transfer service. This well outpaces Uber and other drive share services.
Home Base
Hotels and Air BandB’s are plentiful in and around all of the most popular venues. Logic will guide you to know that the closer to famous landmarks and the Seine, the higher the price will be. Keep in mind that Summer and holidays will also boost that final bill. As with most of Northern Europe, the detail that travelers tend to forget the most is whether or not the rental in mind has air conditioning in months that apply. There’s not a ton of strategy to making the best choice, simply keep in mind what your primary interests are so that you are cutting down on travel time. With your luggage stowed and a bed to lay your head arranged, you are ready to hit the town!
Our booking rule of thumb: Arrondissement 1 and 16 are for museum addicts, arrondissements 5, 6, 9 and 18 are perfect for cafe sitting and ambiance, while arrondissement 4 and 7 is a good balance of both!!
The Paris Planning Primer
Paris is broken up into 20 districts called arrondissements that spiral neatly from the steps of the Notre Dame out toward the suburbs like a perfect escargot shell. Areas one and six contain the big museums, travel north to find Montmarte in the 18th arr., south to the 4th arr. to the famed Latin Quarter. The 7th arr. will get you closest to the Eiffel Tower while the 8th and 9th arr. will land you in smack in the middle Paris’ shopping district.
To really understand how Paris is set up I highly recommend two resources that give you plenty of insight into every corner of the city with true practicality. Rick Steves’ Guide is a travel staple that will lead you to all of the big stuff and make some of those massive places a bit more relatable. Conversely, the Paris In Stride authors have beautifully crafted a series of walks that lead you to many of the lesser known gems throughout 14 of the 20 arrondissements. Both books work well together to give you a bespoke Parisian experience.
This museum essential allows you to gain access to more than 50 metropolitan museums. Starting at €52, the more you use it, the better the deal will be. Keep scrolling to see how just 48 hours can be time and money well spent. Please beware! The Paris museum pass does NOT cover your entrance to the Eiffel Tower.
Grabbing a Batobus boat pass gives you express access through the spine of Paris, the scenic Seine River. With eight perfectly placed stops spanning from the Eiffel Tower, past the Louvre and Notre Dame, to the Sorbonne, a Batobus pass could be the most efficient way to get from point to point. While it is super efficient, I can’t say it’s the most dynamic moment of any trip. The pros are getting a chance to be on the river and pull up right next to those amazing sites that you’ve come to see. The cons? It’s not the most modern of boats and the greenhouse can get a little stuffy in the sun. Read on to see how we used our Batobus pass to our advantage.
Museum Palooza
There are more than 125 museums throughout Paris and each one offers a different take on time and technology, art and fashion, and turn of the century curiosities that dazzled in their day. With so much to choose from, it is an impossibility to take it all in with any sort of quality on any single trip. To that notion, Paris is a city that deserves research and understanding to truly get the most out of however long your trip may be. Taking time to make informed choices about how you spend your time will help create those memories that you want to cherish. I highly recommend The Little Museums Of Paris to guide you to those lesser known gems about town.
Art Attack
Let’s face it. You are headed to one of the premier art capitols in the world. Having some sense of the art world would probably be helpful. In fact, I’d go out on a limb to say that knowing just a little about art can change the way you approach museums in any city whether it’s Rome, Tokyo, or New York City. A comprehensive art history class would totally do the trick but for perhaps a more relaxed approach I suggest Secret Lives Of Great Artists for a little more gossipy version of the who’s who of the art world. For more on how to make art entertaining and useful click here for our full coverage on how to make art a part of your travel without overthinking it.
A Little Advice About the Icons
The Parisian skyline is full of the most recognizable architecture on the planet and during your first visit, you are going to want to see it all. The reality is you simply can’t. What’s a traveler to do?! Pace yourself and choose wisely. Here’s my take on the big guns to help you decide what’s a must and what to pass on.
Notre Dame
Notre Dame sits in the cultural and historical center of Paris. The rest of the city literally fans out from its steps. With the devastating 2019 fire, visiting Notre Dame will be impossible for the next few years but, you can connect with this icon in a few different ways. First, the plaza in front of the cathedral is now open and allows you to see the top half of the front facade. While it’s not much comparatively, a well angled selfie is possible. More interesting is to see the construction progress from the water. Take some time down on the river by using that Batobus boat service we talked about earlier. One of the nine stops is located on the bank opposite the construction.
Taking in the Louvre is an overwhelming task. With three larger than life wings to explore there is simply no way to see everything in one go. Additionally, visitors who are not art lovers may miss the truly magical moments that this Parisian perennial offers. Most people get themselves straight to the Denin Wing as it holds the most famous works housed there. I’m certainly not opposed to that idea but descending into Pei’s pyramid without a plan can spell certain disaster for any first time visitor.
With unlimited access you can choose to visit more than once. Did you hear that? You literally don’t have to stay for an entire day! You can come back! Make reservations for first thing in the morning to explore for an hour or two before hitting up some of the other sites. The crowds are thinner and you can do this for several days. Another great plan of attack is to choose 10 pieces of art to check in with and save the rest for another time.
An insider tip: there is a cafe at the end of the Denin Wing. Grab a refreshment and a macron then head out onto the terrace for a little break from all the walking! The downtime will be a great pick me up!
Musee D’Orsay picks up where the Louvre leaves off, as with the Louvre, you can take in this epic slice of art a little bit at a time. For those who want the express pass to the most famous of works, use the elevator directly to the left of the information desk to get yourself up to the top floor and the world of impressionism. This powerhouse museum also has a roof terrace that gives you spectacular views of the river below and the north bank beyond.
The Eiffel Tower IS NOT covered by the Paris Museum Pass, this icon is a take it or leave it moment. The pros and cons go on and on but at the top of the list is the fact that it is very crowded and surrounded by street hawkers with garish nonsense. Additionally, it’s the only view in Paris without the actual Eiffel Tower in it. Then again, it’s the Eiffel Tower. How do you go to Paris and not visit? I mean, it’s an icon of the world. And it’s fascinating up close. The paint, the rivets and the layers that send this tower up in the sky are truly interesting to look at in an up close and personal way.
A Little Advice About Some of the Smaller Sites
It’s so easy to get caught up in all the big attractions that Paris has to offer. So easy, in fact, that your time and planning can completely overlook some amazing stuff. As you plot your trip, be sure to weave in some of the smaller- and just as delightful– venues out there. Here are three of my favorites.
This museum is located on the outskirts of the 16th arr. It is the former home of an art collector and the location chosen by Monet’s family to display their family collection. This small mansion is perfect for an hour or two. Combine your visit with the small park on the corner or the famous Bois Du Bologne, Paris’ answer to Central Park.
Spanning the walk between the Orsay and the Louvre is the lovely L’Orangarie. This small tribute to the early 20th century is ground zero for Monet’s iconic Waterlilies. In addition, look for the small yet powerful collection of impressionist and post impressionist art on the lower level. Located in the Jardin Tuileries, this museum offers the perfect balance between art and the café just outside the doors. Pull up a green chair and enjoy!
Saint Chapelle is Paris’ jewel box. Just around the corner from Notre Dame on the Ile De La Cite, this unassuming chapel holds one of the best examples of stained glass in the world. As you walk up to the edifice in what is basically a municipal complex for the high courts, you will doubt me. I get it. But, walk around the warehouse of statuary and step inside. Not much right? The secret to this place is the stairs.
Spiral up the stairs to the left and step inside this chapel made for kings. With 365 degrees of perfect stained glass telling the church’s story Saint Chappelle glimmers and sparkles in every direction. Spend a little time in contemplation about the artistry, the history, the spirituality, and the fact that when you look around, you know that you are experiencing one of Paris’ hidden secrets as you are not shoulder to shoulder packed in from wall to wall.
Get your shop on
Gallerie D’Lafayette and Printemps are the premier shopping stores in Paris. Both are located just beyond the Opera Garnier in the 9th arr. Here, you will find every single famous name you are looking for. Browse floor after floor of the latest collections under the massive and impressive stained glass dome at Lafayette. Be sure to make your way to the roof terrace to enjoy the views. Just down the street at Printemps, head upstairs and enjoy a cup of tea or a glass of wine at one of the mirrored tables at the restaurant on the top floor. Find yet another, if not better, example of a stained glass dome. The blue hues will knock your socks off. Once you are done here, the Champs-Elysees will be a distant memory.
A Sample Four Days
Day One
0900 Check in to hotel
1100 Saint Chappelle
1230 Lunch
1430 Musee D’Orsay
1700 Refresh at the hotel
1800 Evening walk stop for dinner and cocktails
Day Two
0900 Louvre: Tour the Denin Wing looking for the 10 pieces I researched
1200 Lunch in the Jardin Tuilleries
1400 L’Orangerie
1600 Tea at Printemps
1900 Dinner
Day Three
0900 Eiffel Tower
1200 The Louvre: Tour the sculpture Garden and Napoleon’s Apartments
1500 Lunch
1700 Musee Marmottan-Monet
1800 Walk through the park and perhaps play a game of Boules
2000 Dinner
Day Four
0900 Finish D’Orsay
1200 Lunch and a walk in the Latin Quarter
1500 Refresh for one last evening
1700 Montmarte, take a tour of the city by night, enjoy an area you discovered, eat at a cafe that was recommended, see a show that you heard about.
The Controversy: What To Skip
I know, I know, it’s the question we always ask ourselves: what is not worth my time? Here’s my list full of my opinions:
Arc D’Triumph: It’s okay but the view is available in numerous other places so if you plan on visiting there, save the Arc for another time.
Eiffel Tower: If you are not into how it was built, it’s a hard pass. Quite frankly, you want it in your photos and that can’t happen when you are on it.
The Middle Wing of The Louvre: Unless you love art, hard pass. The Richelieu Wing has a tremendous amount to offer but if you are not a true art junkie, you may want to balance your time with something else.
The uber fancy macron and tea shops: the local places are just as good if not better.
The Moulin Rouge: Big windmills are far more impressive in The Netherlands.
Champs-Elysees: It’s just not what it once was.
Day Trips and Transfers
Paris is an ideal springboard for lots of other destinations. Look to pair up Paris with some of these idyllic choices.
We did it! We took an amazing Viking Cruise down the Moselle and Rhine rivers! It was all the things that you hope a river cruise will be. It was also the height of the first travel season during a pandemic. In fact, it was the very first cruise out of the gate for Viking since the initial Covid shut down. With only 67 passengers on board a longboat that normally accommodates about 180, our experience both on and off the ship were quite altered from cruises past. I’m here to give you the 411 on exactly what to expect and how to use your time wisely.
Before and After
Reality checks all conclude that cruising has drastically changed since that crazy little thing called COVID landed on our doorsteps. In fact, it made us wonder if travelling at all would be worth it? How could we be sure that cruising would even be a safe choice? We finally settled on this particular cruise because we felt that Viking had pulled together a plan we could count on. So, what did Viking do differently? Well, they laid it out beautifully here in this video from Spring 2021.
Getting Onboard
River cruise lines are very pared down compared to their ocean loving big sisters. In fact, I highly suggest that you acquaint yourself with a river cruise ship because there are a ton of amenities you will not find. You won’t find a pool deck. There’s no casino. These ships often do not have a centerpiece lobby. There aren’t a ton of dining options and you’re not likely to find a rave in the ship’s disco. There are no stage productions and there’s no all day buffet. What there is, though, is plenty of touring and a simple, efficient way to get around.
To Tour or Not To Tour?
Probably Viking’s biggest barrier to getting back to the job at hand was their tour schedule. Normally, river cruise itineraries have more than enough options at each port to please just about everybody on board. From wine tastings to hiking, Viking had the ability to cover it all – pre-pandemic. With that said, the pandemic choices were severely limited and needed to be cleared by local authorities every step of the way.
At first, we were under the impression that if we wanted to leave the ship, there was only one choice: go on the tour. With most ports offering one or two tour options, we were a little nervous that we would be stuck on a bus or following a red tour paddle all day. It turns out that most local officials were extremely nervous about passengers importing more Corona Virus. The negotiated agreement was to limit visitors to the historic downtown areas.
The good news for us is that we had an included tour at every port along the way. The better news is that we didn’t need to go on any of them. So, sleeping in was an option but small tours were too.
Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
Viking prides itself on its food and beverage selections like most cruise ships do. With one main dining room and a terrace, Viking certainly delivered for each and every meal. We enjoyed a standard menu available each day combined with chef’s specials that spanned the regions we were sailing through. We enjoyed delicate French concoctions and sturdy German dishes including a Bavarian themed night with all kinds pretzels and mustards to please the palate. I have to say, however, that Viking tends to cater to a retired crowd and many of the standard choices were not my cup of tea. I stuck to the chef’s special each day.
The Sleepy Moselle
Our trip itinerary started in Paris where we spent a few days enjoying the city. We met our ship in Trier along the lovely Moselle River. There, we got comfortable for 7 days of vineyards, small riverside villages, towering castles, historical architecture, and river locks- lots of river locks!
For reference sake, we happened to be on these two rivers just after massive rainfall had devastated the area just North of our route. The river was high and fast and the banks were certainly flooded. While the water was certainly a sight, it was the iconic hillside vineyards. Steep rows of vines bask in the sunshine and thrive throughout the river valley making it the scenic stretch of river you hope for.
The Mighty Rhine River
As the principal trade route to the inner European populations, the Rhine is as strategic as it is scenic. Romantic looking castles dot the vineyard covered hills looking over the waters they once protected or tormented… depending on who you were! Plenty of lovely riverside towns dot the banks and offer a glimpse into the traditional Germany so many come to think of. Our cruise highlighted the following:
The roaring Rhine was particularly fast throughout our cruise including this highlight stretch of castles.
Trier: Romans and Vineyards
A true seat of Christianity, the Romans settled here and left things for the Germans to run after a couple of centuries. Here, vineyards thrive and the seats of regional popes remain.
Cochem: Half Timbered Charm
With a large castle perched overhead, the little riverside town of Cochem is perfect for a mid afternoon walk to enjoy the ambiance. Take in the baker who has fresh goods to offer. Sit in the cafe and order something hard to pronounce. Stroll past the fountain in the town center and pop in to the general goods store to see what the locals are up to. Our ship stayed just long enough to tour the castle and enjoy the town for a few hours.
Koblenz: The Deutches Eck
Situated where the Moselle and Rhine converge, Koblenz is a work-a-day city that wear’s it’s German pride well as it hosts King William at the water’s edge. The lovely church just steps away from King Bill is a surprisingly pretty stop and there are plenty of eateries to choose from. Although, your ship will most likely be the easiest choice as cruise lines time things to ensure you enjoy your midday meal onboard.
The big story here is the book business. Home to print press inventor Johanes Guttenburg, the town hosts a comprehensive museum but also offers a lovely town square with fresh markets and plenty of outdoor cafes. The better story around town are the smaller churches which burst with historic architecture. While the grand cathedral is hard to miss, it’s not all that memorable. But, just around the corner, smaller parish churches come to life with baroque and rococo brilliance.
Speyer: Biergartens and Basilicas
Speyer offered quite a few points of interest including the large romanesque cathedral with a very large crypt worth investigating. Additionally, the Judenhof or Jewish quarter has a succinct story to share with interesting baths to explain more about this branch of orthodoxy. However, my favorite part of little Speyer was the wide open work-a-day main street full of bustling stores and cafes. We particularly loved the home goods stores with gadgets and heavy pans that we wished we could ship home! Time here can wind down in the little amusement area in the park where the local beirgarten sits. Perfection.
Strasbourg: Our Favorite Stop
I’m going to just say this: out of all the ports our river cruise stopped at, it was Stasbourg that blew us away. It’s imposing grand cathedral with bells that tolled on and on. It’s half timbered, canal laced charm couldn’t have been more perfect an experience. The food and wine were just sublime and our stay was just too short!!! Can you tell we have plans to return? Our favorite moments included mass, the canal boats (get your tickets ahead of time!), and shopping for the unique French pottery exclusive to this area. In all reality, 3 days would be plenty of time to spend here. We did not get enough time to enjoy the whole thing.
Out of all the Swiss cities to see, Basal is best used for a transfer point to much better options to the south. As our river cruise came to an end and transferred us to Zurich. I couldn’t help but realize in hindsight that we should have taken the train right to Bern for the day then use the ever efficient trains to zip right to Zurich and our hotel.
Have you ever wondered about those fabulous activities that you see on youtube, tik tok, and tv? I always ponder whether or not those moments are VIP or available to the average traveler a.k.a. us! So, I’ve scoured a few of the coolest experiences I’ve come across in Switzerland and tracked down whether or not we can. Here are my top 5. Ready?
Finding your way to Bern, Switzerland is a luxury in itself but as Samantha Brown found out there are a few quirky moments in this amazing capitol that might have you wondering what in the world is going on! Local do truly take their work clothes and toss them into a waterproof duffle bag and take the express current down the river home! It’s true! Yes you can! One word of warning, the currents in the Aare River can bit a bit swift, find a guide to help if you do not have a ton of swimming experience. Get a tiny glimpse with this hand held video showing the float from the water. It moves along at quite a clip!
Oh yes you can!!! According to the Barryland website, over 20 puppies are born in their breeding program each year. Much like sled dogs, the foundation encourages puppies to play with strangers so that they are even tempered in their subsequent training. The only catch? You need to be there when the puppies are and that’s completely up to mother nature!
Sliding down a mountain in the Alps
The Alps have been know for their swishing snowy slopes for centuries. Have skis? It’s for you! But what happens on some of these mountains in the Summer months when the snow is apres ski? You slide down that mountain toboggan style!!! Many little mountain resorts offer this super cool roller coaster during the warm months so that they can keep revenues up. Here’s an example of one:
One of the best traditions of old school tourism was the super cool trek through the Alps. Hiking from France to Austria was a right of passage for so many. But does that capability even still exist? It turns out, the answer is yes!!! The mountain hospitality of the past is alive and well with tons of modern day extras. For example, as you make your reservations, you can also opt for take ahead service which gets your bag to your next overnight spot for you. This means that if packing or carrying your bag was your barrier, you are all set. Check out how our old buddy feels about it then check in on some great guides that help you make the most of your journey.
Catch a Cruise from A Swiss City
No you say? I say “oh yes you can!” While Switzerland may be land locked, the great city of Basel is a prominent cruise port in theEuropean river cruising industry. So, I’m not talking about a little swing around Lake Lucerne, I’m talking about a serious launching pad for travel well beyond the Swiss borders. Great companies such as Viking, Ama, and Uniworld all call Basal a homeport where they launch their iconic Mosel and Rhine cruising. Check out Samantha Brown’s take on this incredible take on this amazing experience. P.S. be sure to book into Basel a few days before your launch. It’s great town with an artsy feel.
Travel is an interesting creature. It is always changing. There are always surprises around every corner. Travel can humble even the hardest of hearts and uplift the lowest of spirits. Sometimes when we travel, we don’t always know why a particular adventure has drawn us to it. In fact, it can sometimes seem like we discover the reason why we are on a trip while it unfolds. I happened to find myself in just this situation while taking a classic Mediterranean cruise. Little did I know, I had just stumbled on a hidden pilgrimage.
Istanbul To Athens
My mother and I were off on a great, relaxing cruise that would highlight the Eastern Mediterranean. We were excited about the itinerary that would take us to quite a few ancient sites. We arrived in Istanbul and would make our way through Turkey and Greece aboard a Regent Cruise ship. It was all very fancy and growing up with Greek connections made it that much more exciting. With ports like Philippi and Ephesus, there was no doubt that I would be calling on my Catholic roots to help me make sense of it all. For the record, I consider myself a cultural Catholic. I don’t always go to church but I’m very tuned in to the culture and traditions of my faith. In other words, I’m not a nun but can hang with the sisters.
The Saints
In the Mediterranean, St. Paul seems to pop up everywhere. As one of the most travelled apostles, it’s no surprise. He spent a tremendous amount of time spreading the word of Jesus all along the coast line. Paul, Peter, and James all move around the Med and leave their mark in plenty of locales. I had heard these stories my whole life but, as a traveler, there is no substitution for actually putting your feet in the same spot that biblical history occurred. In fact, each port of call seemed to bring more and more connection to the very core of my faith. Let me share some of them.
Ephesus and Mary
Our tour bus wound around and snaked up the side of the mountain that towered over the ancient ruins of Ephesus in the Summer heat. We were headed for the top where the House of The Blessed Mother sits. I was not looking forward to being an inch closer to the sun but, Mary holds a special place for me. We walked a few yards from the bus into a grove of trees and the temperature in the shade was welcome.
There, in front of us, was Mary’s modest home where she lived after Jesus ascended. Here, in the care of John as Jesus had asked, she lived out her years. It was a magical place and it seemed as if a peace like no other fell over the small grove on the top of the mountain. Just then, a little kitty came to greet us as if to say, “yes, you understand, this is a little paradise!”
Down in the valley, the ruins of the ancient city stand tall and proud as it to say, “see how well we did?” The library of Celsius was a masterpiece and we meander our way toward the amphitheater. Here, Paul was supposed to speak to the locals about all he had learned from Jesus. But the vendors who sold little statues of Artemis, did not want to lose any business. They put up quite the fuss about this so called speaker of the word and Paul changed tactics and wrote a letter instead. That letter. A letter from Paul to the Ephesians. As I stood in the place that this letter was read to eventual boos from the crowd, I couldn’t help being overwhelmed.
Phillipi and St. Lydia
The port of Kevala in Northern Greece is the jumping off point for Philippi- as in, “a letter from Paul to the Philippians”. Here, one of the most important moments of Christianity that you never heard of occurred. Paul, moving north from Turkey, met a woman named Lydia. She was a well to do merchant who sold purple material. Paul told her about his time with Jesus and Lydia became quite the believer. Here, in a cool stream by her house, Lydia became the first European to be baptized.
As we pulled up to the tiny but stunning baptistry that sits adjacent to the very stream that Paul and Lydia shared that sacrament, we again felt that feeling of peace and contentment. In the 106 degree heat, we pulled off our shoes and sat on the banks. Our feet in the cool stream, was sat remembering the quiet moment when Paul helped Lydia find her Christianity. Magical.
Acropolis and St. Paul
Our last port was Piraeus. Homebase for anyone wanting to explore Athens. And at the top of the list for most is the Acropolis. The hill that holds the proud Parthenon is a mecca for so many. However, in addition to climbing up to the top, there is another stop for pilgrims: a rock. This three story rock was where the judges of ancient Athenian culture passed down rulings. It was here that Paul faced his critics and defended the resurrection of Christ.
We arrived early the day after we disembarked to get a head start on the heat and crowds. After enjoying the splendor of the Parthenon and the Carytids of ancient times, we made our way downstream against the morning rush and climbed the metal staircase that led to the top of the Areopagus. Here, Paul made it clear that he was on Team Jesus. He spoke eloquently to the judges who didn’t quite buy the whole thing but at least didn’t order his death! Not much is on the top of the rock but a sign to tell you a quick history and the feeling that you are stepping onto literal history. Just wow!
Lesson Learned
Our cruise was over and I walked away with an amazing experience that history found in books is all around us in real life when you are willing to look. While my path had me stepping into the stories of Christianity, there are plenty of moments regardless of the faith or interest you may have. More importantly, a traveler’s first experience with these kinds of magical moments allows future travel to have those magical memories too! As I continued to travel after this cruise, I found myself adding experiences to my pilgrimage. I’ve included some of them here.
The Vatican and St. Peter
By far, one of the most iconic pilgrimages for anyone in the Christian world is the Vatican. As Paul traveled, Peter on the other hand, went to Rome to face the Emperor and all of his might. He, along with others, was eventually crucified on Vatican Hill. Years later, Constantine legalized Christianity and Vatican Hill became the epicenter of the Catholic world. While the cathedral is amazing and the museums are world class, it is the religious significance of the Vatican that gives you the goosebumps.
Jesus said to Peter ” You are Peter, you are my rock and upon this rock I will build my church”. So powerful. It only holds true that underneath those words in latin painted by the incomparable Michelangelo, lies the bones of the very St. Peter Jesus spoke to. You can visit his crypt beneath the church by arranging to be part of a tour of just a dozen people per visit. By planning and booking months in advance through the Office of the Scavi, you can have that incredible moment to see Peter, the Rock. After, climb the dome to see those letters from the great artistic master up close for the full experience.
In another corner of Europe is a fascinating story of courage and sacrifice. While the Nazi death camp, Auschwitz-Birkenau, is most notorious for the final solution: the rounding up and killing of anyone who wasn’t Hitler’s ideal. While the Jewish population was the primary population that was targeted, quite a few other groups found themselves as part of the Auschwitz population. Among them was Father Max.
The humble priest wore the same rags as the others, and witnessed all of the horrors of the camp. His story is singled out because he begged to change places with a man who had a wife and children. The man was set to be starved to death in basement of cell block 11. He died from this sacrifice and the man, years later, attended his canonization at the Vatican. a miracle indeed.
The cell is still there and many who pay their respects at Auschwitz stumble upon his story rather than go to just see the shrine in the basement. A true hidden pilgrimage!
Look For The Moments That Speak To You.
Travel is such a fickle thing. One moment it tires you and yet another exhilarates you beyond your expectations. Travel excites, informs and brings peace. I am thankful for it everyday: even when I have no idea that I’m experiencing something life changing. It happens to us all the time. Don’t believe me? Check out the amazing David Suchet (most famous for his portrayal of Christie’s Poirot) on his journey to unexpected pilgrimage.
Pilgrimages can happen to anyone. It may seem like they only stand out to a select few but, with an open mindset, every corner of the world offers a pilgrimage of sorts. Regardless of your faith (or for that matter non-faith) a spiritual adventure could be the next amazing experience in your passport!
In ancient times, the goddess Athena looked after Athens as the patroness of the city. The small but mighty city crowned with the Acropolis has been the longest continuously inhabited capitol in Europe. It has seen its glory ebb and flow over not just centuries but millennia. So, what is it about this vacation magnet that keeps travelers coming back over and over again? What makes travel to Athens so appealing?
First Impressions
At first glance, Athens is not the prettiest city you’ve ever seen. With about half of Greece’s population residing in and around Athens, the overall urban sprawl of the place is staggering. Driving through the streets, I find myself asking why Athenians don’t see the overall decline of the area around them. Then, I realize, they are too busy living life. For Athens can be only defined by its people and they are- what’s the word I’m looking for? Kallos.
Plan Strategically
Athens is big. So big, in fact, it’s hard to envision covering it all in one trip. Most visitors (Xenos) focus on the area in and around the Plaka or old town. Making your home base in this area makes the most geographical sense as it makes probably 80% of your itinerary walkable. While some may say that this is the most “touristy” area of the city, there are plenty of options for everyone’s taste. If you do choose another neighborhood, be sure that you have transportation options easily available.Eat Absolutely Everything
If there is one thing that makes me look forward to Athens it’s knowing a fresh cucumber and tomato salad waiting for me. Let me be clear: my first meal in Greece will always be a salad with a fresh tomato that tastes like a tomato! In fact, the last time I was in Athens, I was reading an article at breakfast that was about GMO free regions within the EU. And who is on that list? Greece! No wonder the food still tastes like food! Just like any other country, there are familiar dishes like gyros and souvlaki as well as dishes you may not have heard of like keftedes and pilafi. Hear me now! Eat it all!!!!!
I’d love to give you a perfectly vetted list of authentic restaurants but, in all honesty, I’ve never had a bad meal in The Plaka. Instead, try Hermion for a quiet meal and Kazakos Pantelis for the rooftop view that tucks you right in under the Acropolis.
The Central Market
Getting your head around the food choices in Athens can be a bit overwhelming. There are distinct differences between the touristy menu and the typical Greek menu especially in the Plaka. A great way to learn more about Greek food is to visit the central market. With two distinct parts devoted to meat and seafood on one side and fresh produce on the other, you can get a true sense of what makes Greek cuisine so yummy. Getting there first thing in the morning gives you a sense of the energy that it takes to get Greece’s menus out to her customers every day.
The Plaka’s Treasure
Browsing through the Plaka’s generous supply of stores will keep you busy for days. There are plenty of amazing shops to check out. While touristy t-shirt shops will always be a staple, there are plenty of gems to be found. Some of the legacies that you will find deep in the Plaka include Jewelry Stores that specialize in Byzantine styles. I highly recommendDimos Jewelry You will find owner, Stavros, making great quality pieces that truly reflect that Byzantine style that made the Plaka’s first jewelers so famous. Another incredible jeweler named Tom (Thassos in Greek) can be found at Old Orient Jewelry. While the name is a bit deceiving, make no mistake, its history is well founded in the treasures you find down at the National Archaeological Museum.
I’m Worried Someone’s Watching Me
It’s not your imagination! You are being watched by thousands upon thousands of evil eyes. Don’t let the name fool you, evil eyes are an old superstition meant to keep evil away. You’ll find them on absolutely everything from soap to pillows. Join in the fun, everyone buys them and has them in their house. I always look for the most creative ones to enjoy. If you are still worried, check out the beads that are strung to look like over sized bracelets. These worry beads are another Greek staple that’s well worth the enjoyment.
The best place to get your evil eye swag is at Helen’s which is just in front of Hermion. Check out this old school shop for all kinds of fun stuff to bring home and share. I’ve gone year after year and always have a great time visiting the owner. For more modern inceptions of the evil eye, check out the shops along Adrianou Street.
The Acropolis
While not the crowning achievement of the Ancient Greeks, the Acropolis is certainly the most famous of all the marble piles. Tackling a visit to the City on the Hill can be quite daunting without a little preparation. There are three distinct places to visit to take in the whole story: The Acropolis, The Agora, and The New Museum.
Honestly, I don’t think that there is any right way or correct order in which to visit the sites. The museum does a great job telling the age old story. Then again, the Agora does a fabulous job of explaining ancient daily life. Of course, the climb is so iconic that you may not want to wait. See what I mean?
Know the Controversy
If there was one thing to make sure you know before going to Acropolis, it would be the story of the Parthenon Marbles. Known also as the Elgin Marbles, this group of friezes from the Acropolis. Here’s the story in a nutshell: Way back in 1801, Lord Elgin asked the ruling Ottoman government if he could have his pick of the ruins on top of the Acropolis. The government said okay and he took what he wanted including 75 meters of the frieze. That seemed to be the end of it. Fast forward to post WWII Greece.
The modern and current government feels that the marbles were taken under incorrect circumstances and would like them returned. England is not a fan of this idea since the marbles take center stage in London. There are many twists and turns in this story and it is well worth researching. It will also explain the empty floor at the Acropolis Museum.
Make The Climb
It’s hot and dry in Athens during the Summer but don’t let that deter you from planting your feet high above the modern skyline. Here, at the top of one of the seven hills (just like Rome) that surround Athens. Stop. Take it all in. Take in this crowning glory of ancient times. Walk around the Parthenon and examine the massive columns. Envision that great goddess Athena in all her glory filling the space inside. Study the intricate copies of the Caryatids that have held up the porch of the Erechtheion opposite the temple. Check in with the restoration projects to see how they are holding back the erosion of time. It’s an overwhelming moment for any traveler.
Last, walk out to the Greek flag. Here, learn the story of Konstantinos Koukidis and why he is so important to modern Greece. Be sure to also view the amphitheater and the main gate to get a full feel of what this hilltop must have been like in its prime. I would say that climbing to the top is a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10. It’s the Summer heat that will do you in more than the hike.
On your way down, be sure to seek out a moment to climb the stairs to the rock where St. Paul talked to the Athenians. As in “a letter from St. Paul to the Athenians”. Yes, those passages in the Bible happen right at the foot of Athena’s home turf. Whether you are interested in religion or not, the stop is an interesting one to pause and think of time in terms centuries and millenia. It’s just astounding.
Get Out Of Town!
Athens is full of amazing sites and treasures. Just ride the subway to see that even when you are getting from point A to point B, you will run in to museum quality antiquities. Between the Evzones and stunning churches, and even a hilltop observatory, Athens has plenty to keep any traveler busy. I know it’s tempting to check as many museums as possible off your list and if that’s your thing, check away! But, if you are like most, you are probably wanting to balance ancient ruins with bougainvillea covered tavernas that overlook dreamy sea views.
If that’s your idea of fun, head south to catch the ferry to Hydra. This little, traffic free island has all the charm you can take. Enjoy the people watching and browse the little shops. Greece will not leave you wanting in the souvenir department. Most of all, pull up a chair. Order a drink and something delicious. Relax. Enjoy. You’re in Greece!
Another amazing side trip is to set your sights north toward a town called Meteora. World renown for it’s monasteries that are sky high, this little corner of the world is quite magical. Tour one of the monasteries and then enjoy the little downtown tavernas in the evening. This is a side of Greece that rarely get seen by the first time visitor.
If you plan to include the Greek Islands in your travels, check out our amazing post about seeing them here!
If I asked you to name some Greek Islands, I bet most of you would kick off your list with the hall of famers. Mykonos. Santorini. Crete. But did you know that there are 227 inhabited islands in Greece? So why does it seem like 95% of vacationers only go to these 3 biggies? Perhaps it’s because that’s where most cruise lines and tour groups decide to stop. Perhaps they get the most press. Maybe they are thought of as the A team. Don’t get me wrong, each of these Grecian gems are well worth the visit but what about the other 224?!
Getting Our Bearings
Greek Islands are connected by ferry and knowing how the ferry system works can be the key to unlocking other, less touristy islands. These ferries will sure get you to whatever island you are interested in. However, they can be a bit of a time eater. Between boarding schedules and tickets, ferries do the job for the day tripper but might not cut it for the traveler looking to really get away. Good thing there is another choice!
Here’s my thought:
For a true Greek Island experience, may I suggest renting a catamaran with some friends and family? I bet you think that it’s way too much of a splurge to really justify it. Consider this: Let’s say a catamaran costs $12,000 to rent for 7 days. Oosh! That’s way too steep! But what happens if 6 friends can share the cost? Well, your part is now $2,000 inclusive. Better? Now, add in the fact that 2 of your meals and your alcohol tab are included with your room and transportation! Well, well, well. Things are looking up!
So, you’ve committed to a little island hopping. Exactly which islands will you see? You will quickly find out that islands are grouped together with names like The Cyclades, The Sporades, The Ionian, and more. Focusing on one of these clusters would definitely help. For our purposes, let’s focus on the Cyclades.
Recalibrate Your Traveling Mind
Sometimes when we travel, we do so to enlighten ourselves; to learn more about another culture. While there are moments that cater to this all over the islands, don’t expect cultural understanding to be the focus. Instead, set your course toward relaxation, food experiences, and local village life. Because that’s what the Greek Islands are made for!
Launching into island mode started in the old port of Lavrion which is opposite the main port of Pireas. Our boat had three staterooms and was manned by a captain, Vasilis, and a host slash chef named Leoni. Once settled, Leoni turned on the music, poured the wine and made us feel right at home in true Greek style.
Each day, we would sail to a different island, stopping in small coves along the way, and stay the night in a new port of call. It becomes very easy to get into an island rhythm: breakfast, sail, swim, lunch, swim. dine, repeat. It’s that easy. Have I convinced you yet? Are you ready to go?
In our week, we spent time on the following islands~
Kythnos- has plenty of charm and was perfect for a daytime hike up to the top for fabulous views. Stay down by the water for famous Kolona Beach.
Syros- home to Ermoupolis, Syros offers a great harbor with plenty of outdoor cafes and bars. The streets are literally paved in marble from Florentine times.
Paros- grab a blue chair at a white table and enjoy island life without the over indulgence of cruise ships.
Mykonos- home to those famous white washed winding streets full of bougainvillea and shops. Known for being a party island, it can be overcrowded by day but super fun at night.
Sifnos- a small but fun spot to enjoy some down time, drink some local wine and take in the salty breeze.
Serifos- with a great harbor, the food here is wonderful and the calm island had plenty of charm.
Sounion Bay- home to Posiedon’s famous temple, there’s a small beach with choppy water but the hike up to the top is bucket list worthy.
Athens- We started and ended our trip with a few days in Athens. There we enjoyed the Plaka and climbed up to the top of the Acropolis. For more on Athens, click here.
9 Tips To Make Your Greek Island Adventure Perfect!
Be flexible! Our captain did a great job of bringing us to islands where the weather was great. He was able to skirt around storms to keep our sailing smooth. In other words, you may not get to 6 islands in a specific order. Instead, expect to jump in to a group of islands and let your skipper lead the way.
Pack wisely! You won’t need much! A few pairs of tops and shorts, good sandals, your swimsuit, and two or three sundresses or skirts to throw on top of your bathing suit. That’s it!
Prepare for chilly water! Contrary to what you may think, some waters are a bit colder than you may expect. Don’t get me wrong, you will still adore it!
Timing is everything! Check the average temperatures before you book so that you will have sunny, warm days and cooler nights to sleep. Most boats don’t have AC.
Get sick, fast! This may be a bit gross but the quicker you get over your inevitable sea sickness, the quicker you can get on with your holiday.
Know your islands! When you book, be sure to ask about the possible islands that you may visit. You can then research each and find your favorite thing to do on each island regardless of where you go.
Go big! And go small. When you book be sure to let them know that you would like to enjoy all kinds of islands. Cosmopolitan, quaint, Euro-friendly, family-friendly, historic, the list keeps going. Be sure to let your agent know what you want- and that should include at least a day at an icon like Mykonos or Santorini depending on your timing.
Get to Athens! Don’t come this far and not check in with Athens to see this great city!
And Lastly…
Leave the kids! While there is no where in the world that you can’t take your kids, some places lend themselves far better to the pint sized set than others. Greece is not one of those places. Yes, there is a ton from the Bible and a ton from ancient times. Yes, you could make an amazing trip to the islands with the kids, I just think there are better places to take them than here. Enjoy yourself as an adult for a while, the kids will be fine!
Travel presents itself to us in so many ways. From domestic to international, from road trip to cruise, travel never seems to run out of options. One of those quirky travel moments shows up in the extended layover-and Istanbul is a huge layover airport. Think about it. A layover is the perfect way to test the waters in a new place before totally committing to it. Moreover, layovers are the perfect way to see those little places that are often overlooked. (I’m talking to you, Copenhagen!) Even the great Bourdain chose to highlight the benefits of a layover with an entire series! Further, more and more of us travelers are routing our trips to include these little pop up moments in our plans. I know I certainly have!
Consider this; after booking a cruise (Istanbul to Athens), how could I possibly fly in to the re-imagined Constantinople and just hop on a ship? How could I not take at least 24 hours to explore this city of cities? Thankfully, I seized the moment and Istanbul did not disappoint! With a flight landing at 7 in the morning and my connection not until 5 pm tomorrow, I’ve got time to check out glorious Istanbul.
Spend the day with the icons.
Here’s the deal. No matter what city you are in, the icons are icons for a reason! And, while I could totally tell you about lots of back street finds that no one knows about, the reality is that whether you have 24 hours or 2 to 4 weeks, icons matter! And when it comes to icons, Istanbul delivers in a big way. In fact, five of the must sees in this ancient town are quite hefty. They are so important to historical understanding, they should be your first stop. Conveniently, these three gems are lined up in a neat row to help economize your time.
The Blue Mosque
Start at the mighty Blue Mosque. The Sultanahmet Camii is the official name for this architectural wonder. Built over just seven years in the early 1600’s at the height of Ahmed I. It’s important to remember that the mosque does not solely function as a tourist attraction as it’s primary purpose is as a religious center complete with a madrasa and hospice. This means that there are times when tourists are not allowed in. But on the flip side, I have been in Istanbul in peak season and there was no line at all to enter and enjoy.
All in all, be sure to time your arrival so you don’t have any bumps in the road. So why in the world has it earned the nickname the Blue Mosque? The answer lies in the tiles that cover the inside. So, leave your shoes at the door and walk inside. I highly suggest a guide so that you can appreciate the details like the subtle pattern in the carpet that indicate personal space and the calligraphy that is artfully incorporated across the space. (Ladies, bring a scarf for your head if that isn’t your habit.)
Hagia Sophia
Just down the street is Hagia Sofia. Take moment and grab a snack from one of the colorful vendors as you walk toward this treasure so you can take in the splendor of your surroundings. Then, enter the museum. Predating the Blue Mosque by almost 1000 years, this present day mosque comes with quite a complex past. As it changed hands from one empire to another and one religion to another, the sanctuary has acquired literal layers of history that have been peeled back to provide quite an interesting insight.
Again, a guide is strongly suggested so that you spend your visit focused on what makes the building a spectacular example of history. (And looking for the resident cats.) Notice the way the Muslim fixtures concern themselves with facing Mecca while the earlier Christian installations were obviously centered around the architecture of the building. As you leave the great church, take a few moments to enjoy your last moments on Sultanahmet Square as you continue through the streets toward…
Topkapi Palace
Just a 10 minute walk away is another Istanbul standard. You have entered the grounds of Topkapi Palace. This grand palace takes you back to the times of sultans and harems. However, unlike your last two stops, feel free to take the standard tour as the palace’s tour guides do a great job of explaining the relics and priceless jewels that all good sultans must possess. Take in the different spaces of the “Cannon Gate” Palace and note the amazing way the Ottoman Empire made it all work! While the palace fell out of fashion and the last sultans moved on, this UNESCO World Heritage site does a great job of telling the Ottoman narrative. Once you have finished soaking up history, it’s time to relax and take in modern Istanbul.
Soak up the modern Istanbul.
Istanbul has tons of historic sites to tour but, don’t be fooled! Istanbul is far more than its past. Modern, day to day Istanbul has a charm and electricity that is uniquely its own. With tons of neighborhoods to poke around in, there’s something for everyone. And life in Istanbul centers on its water. The Bosphorus Straights. Depending on your time, consider taking a ferry ride to get a true feel for how important this narrow slice of water is!
Take a seat in Ortaköy.
Tucked under the Bosphorus bridge, the Ortaköy neighborhood is a delightful area. Meander down windy, twisty streets that eventually open up to the water. Then, choose a table at one of the numerous cafes and relax. The choppy straights are right in front of you and the Ortaköy Plaza is full of life. While you choose off the menu, notice the local cats as they dodge the waves. Enjoy the evening in this little corner of Istanbul, soak in the atmosphere of houka and turkish dishes and let it all delight the senses.
Get your shop on, Istanbul style.
Start you morning with a walk over the Galata bridge. Grab a coffee. This busy bridge serves as the connection between the northern and southern areas of Istanbul. As you walk across the span take in the morning catch as fishing boats start to moor and set up shop. It may be breakfast time but go for a fresh fish sandwich from one of the fishermen that are rocking away on the water.
Spicy
Just a short walk away is the Spice Bazaar. The morning is buzzing with homemakers and chefs all jostling for the best deal. Quite simply, it’s a photographer’s dream. It’s smaller than its big Grand brother but well worth the stop to see pile after pile, basket after basket of all that goodness! Spend some time roaming around and when you feel confident enough, give haggling a go with one of the aggressive but amiable vendors.
The Grand Dame
Now that you’ve gotten your haggling confidence down, head over to the maze that is the Grand Bazaar. Lanterns, houkas, rugs, and turkish coffee pots assault your senses as you wander through the labyrinth of alleys filled with vendors and their wares. Take the bait. Go into a turkish rug shop and let them unfurl their stock with panache and show you how each rug is signed by the artist. You won’t be upsetting anyone when you say no. Someone will be along soon enough who will enjoy their new purchase.
The Grand Bazaar has been ebbing and flowing with Istanbul’s population for more than 500 years. It truly is the heartbeat of the city and can be enjoyed by and kind of traveler. If you love getting lost on your own, this may be the best place in the world to do that. Conversely, plenty of guided tours exist for those travelers who are more comfortable with someone to help them take in the scene. Either way, you won’t regret it!
Finish up your whirlwind of a tour.
With the small amount of time you have left, I have one more suggestion to finish out your time. An interesting, often overlooked aspect of Turkish culture is the Mevlevi Order of Sufism better known as the Whirling Dervishes. With a 700 year old history, these religious men, will share their prayer and meditation ritual with visitors. Check out this clip (about half way in) from Rick Steves for a look at how learning about these slices of culture is a benefit to any traveler.
Layover Logistics
You’ve done it! Taking in a city of Istanbul’s magnitude in just a day is a tall order. It takes a bit of planning and a lot of jet lagged time but, it’s totally worth it! It’s that moment of travel when you say to yourself “I can sleep on the plane”. There are a few tips that can make your layover a true success.
Over plan to ensure a smooth layover. Nothing will ruin your travels more than something going drastically wrong at the very beginning or end of your trip.
Consider making your layover an overnight affair. An early flight in and a late flight out on the next day will make the most of your time.
Be bag smart. Check your main luggage into storage at the airport so you only need to handle a light bag with your overnight items.
Research the amount of time you will need to get to and from the airport. In Copenhagen, you are in the city center in less than 20 minutes but in Istanbul it can take up to two hours. Additionally, be well versed on local airport procedures so you have a smooth check in process.
Give yourself a break. Extended layovers can become a marathon while you try to cram in as much as possible. Have a great list to guide you but, remember, if you don’t get to all of it, you can always go back!
So, what can you do in Ireland with 5 days? As it turns out a lot! TGC is looking at different locations both near and far to see what great opportunities are out there to share with your family.
Western Ireland is an amazing corner of the globe that holds more surprises than you might expect. The Wild Atlantic Way is one of Europe’s best kept secrets. It’s windy, rainy, and often cold. It is untamed. But more than anything, it is stunning. There is no view or vista that doesn’t make you catch you breath. Like any involved traveler, though, scenery is not the only thing one wants to experience. So, what is there to do? It turns out, there is a lot!
Sheep dog demonstrations: All along the coast from Donegal to Dingle, you can find small farms that offer demonstrations on how their cool dogs keep control over their unfenced flocks. The partnership between man and dog is astounding and much more interesting than first meets the eye. Pictured here is champion, Jack. TGC’s Pick? Atlantic Sheepdogs in County Sligo. Find them on Facebook.
Did you know that the term “wrapped around my little finger” comes from falconry? Ireland’s National Falconry School is located in Cong, County Mayo and is an experience like no other! Meet up in the school yard to learn the basics and then go on a hike with some feathered friends to experience flight like you never have before. While Falconry schools exist in other places, even here in the States, there is nothing quite like the thrill of enjoying it in the shadow of a great castle. Check it out at here.
Donegal
Horseback Riding is a great activity for most families but add in beaches that are wider than football fields, crashing waves of the Eastern Atlantic, pristine dune paths, and epic Irish draft horses, you have a memory that will last forever. The beaches that you get to ride on are also known for its surfing. TGC’s stable pick? Check out Donegal Equestrian Centre.
Westport
Sometimes, you’ve got to get out and explore on your own and there is no better place for that in Western Ireland than Westport. This holiday town is picturesque town is bustling with all kinds of activities that speak to the family traveler. Check out the charming toy store on the main drag then rent some bikes and explore the Greenway. The Great Western Greenway is a 42 km trail that connects several towns together along Clew Bay. Check it out here.
Blarney Castle
As you go further south, you can check in on the famous Blarney Castle. I know, I know, you think it’s so cliche to go kiss that rock but trust me. Blarney is more than a rock to kiss! The grounds are expansive and include so much more than the castle. Peek in on the Poison Garden to learn a bit about medieval medicine, walk around the lake to take in the outer reaches of the castle grounds. Then, yes, climb the steep stairs up to the top and kiss the stone! You won’t ever forget it!
Ireland’s western coast has so much to offer besides the small list here and it’s all worth it! So, go. Go travel. Go do. Go and explore that great Irish frontier, The Wild Atlantic Way.
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Alexandra is a travel host and podcaster who focuses on niche bespoke experiences in Europe. Always supporting DIYers and those looking to travel in modern small group style. You’ll find her spending extensive time in Krakow, Poland when not back in the States. She has a Master degree in European History and has been an art teacher for years but now focuses solely on enhancing travel for others.
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