Paris 101: Bonjour!!!

Ahhh, Paris! What makes this city of lights so addicting? Is it the artistic light? Is it the curated café culture? Perhaps it’s the storied art that graces museum after museum. Then again, the shopping is world class. Whether it’s the picturesque parks or the charming arrondissements, Paris, never ever disappoints.

Truth be told, you can spend three days, three weeks, or three years in Paris and never get to take in everything that the city has to offer! With 20 neighborhoods and hundreds of points of interest, Paris is a never ending amusement park of history and culture for every sort of traveler. Additionally, Paris is a joy no matter what time of year you plan to visit. So, let’s dig in to the planning logistics that will make your trip to Paris all that it can be.

Coming In For A Landing

Flights from the States tend to clear customs by 8 a.m., so with a strong exit plan, the day will be yours to enjoy from noon on. Paris’ legendary Charles DeGaul Airport is about an hour from the city center and every traveler needs to make plans for a clear exit from the airport. CDG offers quite a few ways to get into the city center. The most economical (and sweaty) way is to lug your bags on the famed Metro in terminal two or three and get yourself to the busy Gare Du Nord. From this hub in the 10th arrondissement, the local Metro trains fan out to most areas.

While certainly economical, I think a standard Parisian taxi is the best bet as the industry has been regulated and the fee is exactly the same regardless of the car you get. Simply line up at the queue and grab the next car in line. Expect to pay about $80.00 for door to door and luggage transfer service. This well outpaces Uber and other drive share services.

Home Base

Hotels and Air BandB’s are plentiful in and around all of the most popular venues. Logic will guide you to know that the closer to famous landmarks and the Seine, the higher the price will be. Keep in mind that Summer and holidays will also boost that final bill. As with most of Northern Europe, the detail that travelers tend to forget the most is whether or not the rental in mind has air conditioning in months that apply. There’s not a ton of strategy to making the best choice, simply keep in mind what your primary interests are so that you are cutting down on travel time. With your luggage stowed and a bed to lay your head arranged, you are ready to hit the town!

Our booking rule of thumb: Arrondissement 1 and 16 are for museum addicts, arrondissements 5, 6, 9 and 18 are perfect for cafe sitting and ambiance, while arrondissement 4 and 7 is a good balance of both!!

The Paris Planning Primer

Paris is broken up into 20 districts called arrondissements that spiral neatly from the steps of the Notre Dame out toward the suburbs like a perfect escargot shell. Areas one and six contain the big museums, travel north to find Montmarte in the 18th arr., south to the 4th arr. to the famed Latin Quarter. The 7th arr. will get you closest to the Eiffel Tower while the 8th and 9th arr. will land you in smack in the middle Paris’ shopping district.

To really understand how Paris is set up I highly recommend two resources that give you plenty of insight into every corner of the city with true practicality. Rick Steves’ Guide is a travel staple that will lead you to all of the big stuff and make some of those massive places a bit more relatable. Conversely, the Paris In Stride authors have beautifully crafted a series of walks that lead you to many of the lesser known gems throughout 14 of the 20 arrondissements. Both books work well together to give you a bespoke Parisian experience.

Paris Museum Pass

This museum essential allows you to gain access to more than 50 metropolitan museums. Starting at €52, the more you use it, the better the deal will be. Keep scrolling to see how just 48 hours can be time and money well spent. Please beware! The Paris museum pass does NOT cover your entrance to the Eiffel Tower.

Grabbing a Batobus boat pass gives you express access through the spine of Paris, the scenic Seine River. With eight perfectly placed stops spanning from the Eiffel Tower, past the Louvre and Notre Dame, to the Sorbonne, a Batobus pass could be the most efficient way to get from point to point. While it is super efficient, I can’t say it’s the most dynamic moment of any trip. The pros are getting a chance to be on the river and pull up right next to those amazing sites that you’ve come to see. The cons? It’s not the most modern of boats and the greenhouse can get a little stuffy in the sun. Read on to see how we used our Batobus pass to our advantage.

Museum Palooza

There are more than 125 museums throughout Paris and each one offers a different take on time and technology, art and fashion, and turn of the century curiosities that dazzled in their day. With so much to choose from, it is an impossibility to take it all in with any sort of quality on any single trip. To that notion, Paris is a city that deserves research and understanding to truly get the most out of however long your trip may be. Taking time to make informed choices about how you spend your time will help create those memories that you want to cherish. I highly recommend The Little Museums Of Paris to guide you to those lesser known gems about town.

Art Attack

Let’s face it. You are headed to one of the premier art capitols in the world. Having some sense of the art world would probably be helpful. In fact, I’d go out on a limb to say that knowing just a little about art can change the way you approach museums in any city whether it’s Rome, Tokyo, or New York City. A comprehensive art history class would totally do the trick but for perhaps a more relaxed approach I suggest Secret Lives Of Great Artists for a little more gossipy version of the who’s who of the art world. For more on how to make art entertaining and useful click here for our full coverage on how to make art a part of your travel without overthinking it.

A Little Advice About the Icons

The Parisian skyline is full of the most recognizable architecture on the planet and during your first visit, you are going to want to see it all. The reality is you simply can’t. What’s a traveler to do?! Pace yourself and choose wisely. Here’s my take on the big guns to help you decide what’s a must and what to pass on.

Notre Dame

Notre Dame sits in the cultural and historical center of Paris. The rest of the city literally fans out from its steps. With the devastating 2019 fire, visiting Notre Dame will be impossible for the next few years but, you can connect with this icon in a few different ways. First, the plaza in front of the cathedral is now open and allows you to see the top half of the front facade. While it’s not much comparatively, a well angled selfie is possible. More interesting is to see the construction progress from the water. Take some time down on the river by using that Batobus boat service we talked about earlier. One of the nine stops is located on the bank opposite the construction.

The Louvre

Taking in the Louvre is an overwhelming task. With three larger than life wings to explore there is simply no way to see everything in one go. Additionally, visitors who are not art lovers may miss the truly magical moments that this Parisian perennial offers. Most people get themselves straight to the Denin Wing as it holds the most famous works housed there. I’m certainly not opposed to that idea but descending into Pei’s pyramid without a plan can spell certain disaster for any first time visitor.

With unlimited access you can choose to visit more than once. Did you hear that? You literally don’t have to stay for an entire day! You can come back! Make reservations for first thing in the morning to explore for an hour or two before hitting up some of the other sites. The crowds are thinner and you can do this for several days. Another great plan of attack is to choose 10 pieces of art to check in with and save the rest for another time.

An insider tip: there is a cafe at the end of the Denin Wing. Grab a refreshment and a macron then head out onto the terrace for a little break from all the walking! The downtime will be a great pick me up!

Musee D’Orsay

Musee D’Orsay picks up where the Louvre leaves off, as with the Louvre, you can take in this epic slice of art a little bit at a time. For those who want the express pass to the most famous of works, use the elevator directly to the left of the information desk to get yourself up to the top floor and the world of impressionism. This powerhouse museum also has a roof terrace that gives you spectacular views of the river below and the north bank beyond.

Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower IS NOT covered by the Paris Museum Pass, this icon is a take it or leave it moment. The pros and cons go on and on but at the top of the list is the fact that it is very crowded and surrounded by street hawkers with garish nonsense. Additionally, it’s the only view in Paris without the actual Eiffel Tower in it. Then again, it’s the Eiffel Tower. How do you go to Paris and not visit? I mean, it’s an icon of the world. And it’s fascinating up close. The paint, the rivets and the layers that send this tower up in the sky are truly interesting to look at in an up close and personal way.

A Little Advice About Some of the Smaller Sites

It’s so easy to get caught up in all the big attractions that Paris has to offer. So easy, in fact, that your time and planning can completely overlook some amazing stuff. As you plot your trip, be sure to weave in some of the smaller- and just as delightful– venues out there. Here are three of my favorites.

Musee Marmatton-Monet

This museum is located on the outskirts of the 16th arr. It is the former home of an art collector and the location chosen by Monet’s family to display their family collection. This small mansion is perfect for an hour or two. Combine your visit with the small park on the corner or the famous Bois Du Bologne, Paris’ answer to Central Park.

L’Orangerie

Spanning the walk between the Orsay and the Louvre is the lovely L’Orangarie. This small tribute to the early 20th century is ground zero for Monet’s iconic Waterlilies. In addition, look for the small yet powerful collection of impressionist and post impressionist art on the lower level. Located in the Jardin Tuileries, this museum offers the perfect balance between art and the café just outside the doors. Pull up a green chair and enjoy!

Saint Chappelle

Saint Chapelle is Paris’ jewel box. Just around the corner from Notre Dame on the Ile De La Cite, this unassuming chapel holds one of the best examples of stained glass in the world. As you walk up to the edifice in what is basically a municipal complex for the high courts, you will doubt me. I get it. But, walk around the warehouse of statuary and step inside. Not much right? The secret to this place is the stairs.

Spiral up the stairs to the left and step inside this chapel made for kings. With 365 degrees of perfect stained glass telling the church’s story Saint Chappelle glimmers and sparkles in every direction. Spend a little time in contemplation about the artistry, the history, the spirituality, and the fact that when you look around, you know that you are experiencing one of Paris’ hidden secrets as you are not shoulder to shoulder packed in from wall to wall.

Get your shop on

Gallerie D’Lafayette and Printemps are the premier shopping stores in Paris. Both are located just beyond the Opera Garnier in the 9th arr. Here, you will find every single famous name you are looking for. Browse floor after floor of the latest collections under the massive and impressive stained glass dome at Lafayette. Be sure to make your way to the roof terrace to enjoy the views. Just down the street at Printemps, head upstairs and enjoy a cup of tea or a glass of wine at one of the mirrored tables at the restaurant on the top floor. Find yet another, if not better, example of a stained glass dome. The blue hues will knock your socks off. Once you are done here, the Champs-Elysees will be a distant memory.

A Sample Four Days

Day One
0900 Check in to hotel
1100 Saint Chappelle
1230 Lunch
1430 Musee D’Orsay
1700 Refresh at the hotel
1800 Evening walk stop for dinner and cocktails
Day Two
0900 Louvre: Tour the Denin Wing looking for the 10 pieces I researched
1200 Lunch in the Jardin Tuilleries
1400 L’Orangerie
1600 Tea at Printemps
1900 Dinner
Day Three
0900 Eiffel Tower
1200 The Louvre: Tour the sculpture Garden and Napoleon’s Apartments
1500 Lunch
1700 Musee Marmottan-Monet
1800 Walk through the park and perhaps play a game of Boules
2000 Dinner
Day Four
0900 Finish D’Orsay
1200 Lunch and a walk in the Latin Quarter
1500 Refresh for one last evening
1700 Montmarte, take a tour of the city by night, enjoy an area you discovered, eat at a cafe that was recommended, see a show that you heard about.

The Controversy: What To Skip

I know, I know, it’s the question we always ask ourselves: what is not worth my time? Here’s my list full of my opinions:

Arc D’Triumph: It’s okay but the view is available in numerous other places so if you plan on visiting there, save the Arc for another time.
Eiffel Tower: If you are not into how it was built, it’s a hard pass. Quite frankly, you want it in your photos and that can’t happen when you are on it.
The Middle Wing of The Louvre: Unless you love art, hard pass. The Richelieu Wing has a tremendous amount to offer but if you are not a true art junkie, you may want to balance your time with something else.
The uber fancy macron and tea shops: the local places are just as good if not better.
The Moulin Rouge: Big windmills are far more impressive in The Netherlands.
Champs-Elysees: It’s just not what it once was.

Day Trips and Transfers

Paris is an ideal springboard for lots of other destinations. Look to pair up Paris with some of these idyllic choices.

Loire Valley
Versailles
Giverny
Normandy
The Moselle River
London
Bruges

@babciaandyiayia
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♬ バラ色の人生 – Édith Piaf

March 2, 2022 4

Switzerland 101: 5 Experiences Not To Miss

brown wooden houses near green trees and mountain under white clouds during daytime

Have you ever wondered about those fabulous activities that you see on youtube, tik tok, and tv? I always ponder whether or not those moments are VIP or available to the average traveler a.k.a. us! So, I’ve scoured a few of the coolest experiences I’ve come across in Switzerland and tracked down whether or not we can. Here are my top 5. Ready?

Swimming in a Swiss glacier river

Finding your way to Bern, Switzerland is a luxury in itself but as Samantha Brown found out there are a few quirky moments in this amazing capitol that might have you wondering what in the world is going on! Local do truly take their work clothes and toss them into a waterproof duffle bag and take the express current down the river home! It’s true! Yes you can! One word of warning, the currents in the Aare River can bit a bit swift, find a guide to help if you do not have a ton of swimming experience. Get a tiny glimpse with this hand held video showing the float from the water. It moves along at quite a clip!

Play With St. Bernard Puppies

Oh yes you can!!! According to the Barryland website, over 20 puppies are born in their breeding program each year. Much like sled dogs, the foundation encourages puppies to play with strangers so that they are even tempered in their subsequent training. The only catch? You need to be there when the puppies are and that’s completely up to mother nature!

Sliding down a mountain in the Alps

The Alps have been know for their swishing snowy slopes for centuries. Have skis? It’s for you! But what happens on some of these mountains in the Summer months when the snow is apres ski? You slide down that mountain toboggan style!!! Many little mountain resorts offer this super cool roller coaster during the warm months so that they can keep revenues up. Here’s an example of one:

Hiking in the Alps one way

One of the best traditions of old school tourism was the super cool trek through the Alps. Hiking from France to Austria was a right of passage for so many. But does that capability even still exist? It turns out, the answer is yes!!! The mountain hospitality of the past is alive and well with tons of modern day extras. For example, as you make your reservations, you can also opt for take ahead service which gets your bag to your next overnight spot for you. This means that if packing or carrying your bag was your barrier, you are all set. Check out how our old buddy feels about it then check in on some great guides that help you make the most of your journey.

Catch a Cruise from A Swiss City

No you say? I say “oh yes you can!” While Switzerland may be land locked, the great city of Basel is a prominent cruise port in the European river cruising industry. So, I’m not talking about a little swing around Lake Lucerne, I’m talking about a serious launching pad for travel well beyond the Swiss borders. Great companies such as Viking, Ama, and Uniworld all call Basal a homeport where they launch their iconic Mosel and Rhine cruising. Check out Samantha Brown’s take on this incredible take on this amazing experience. P.S. be sure to book into Basel a few days before your launch. It’s great town with an artsy feel.

April 3, 2021 1

The Hidden Pilgrimage

Travel is an interesting creature. It is always changing. There are always surprises around every corner. Travel can humble even the hardest of hearts and uplift the lowest of spirits. Sometimes when we travel, we don’t always know why a particular adventure has drawn us to it. In fact, it can sometimes seem like we discover the reason why we are on a trip while it unfolds. I happened to find myself in just this situation while taking a classic Mediterranean cruise. Little did I know, I had just stumbled on a hidden pilgrimage.

Istanbul To Athens

My mother and I were off on a great, relaxing cruise that would highlight the Eastern Mediterranean. We were excited about the itinerary that would take us to quite a few ancient sites. We arrived in Istanbul and would make our way through Turkey and Greece aboard a Regent Cruise ship. It was all very fancy and growing up with Greek connections made it that much more exciting. With ports like Philippi and Ephesus, there was no doubt that I would be calling on my Catholic roots to help me make sense of it all. For the record, I consider myself a cultural Catholic. I don’t always go to church but I’m very tuned in to the culture and traditions of my faith. In other words, I’m not a nun but can hang with the sisters.

The Saints

In the Mediterranean, St. Paul seems to pop up everywhere. As one of the most travelled apostles, it’s no surprise. He spent a tremendous amount of time spreading the word of Jesus all along the coast line. Paul, Peter, and James all move around the Med and leave their mark in plenty of locales. I had heard these stories my whole life but, as a traveler, there is no substitution for actually putting your feet in the same spot that biblical history occurred. In fact, each port of call seemed to bring more and more connection to the very core of my faith. Let me share some of them.

Ephesus and Mary

Our tour bus wound around and snaked up the side of the mountain that towered over the ancient ruins of Ephesus in the Summer heat. We were headed for the top where the House of The Blessed Mother sits. I was not looking forward to being an inch closer to the sun but, Mary holds a special place for me. We walked a few yards from the bus into a grove of trees and the temperature in the shade was welcome.

There, in front of us, was Mary’s modest home where she lived after Jesus ascended. Here, in the care of John as Jesus had asked, she lived out her years. It was a magical place and it seemed as if a peace like no other fell over the small grove on the top of the mountain. Just then, a little kitty came to greet us as if to say, “yes, you understand, this is a little paradise!”

Down in the valley, the ruins of the ancient city stand tall and proud as it to say, “see how well we did?” The library of Celsius was a masterpiece and we meander our way toward the amphitheater. Here, Paul was supposed to speak to the locals about all he had learned from Jesus. But the vendors who sold little statues of Artemis, did not want to lose any business. They put up quite the fuss about this so called speaker of the word and Paul changed tactics and wrote a letter instead. That letter. A letter from Paul to the Ephesians. As I stood in the place that this letter was read to eventual boos from the crowd, I couldn’t help being overwhelmed.

Phillipi and St. Lydia

The port of Kevala in Northern Greece is the jumping off point for Philippi- as in, “a letter from Paul to the Philippians”. Here, one of the most important moments of Christianity that you never heard of occurred. Paul, moving north from Turkey, met a woman named Lydia. She was a well to do merchant who sold purple material. Paul told her about his time with Jesus and Lydia became quite the believer. Here, in a cool stream by her house, Lydia became the first European to be baptized.

As we pulled up to the tiny but stunning baptistry that sits adjacent to the very stream that Paul and Lydia shared that sacrament, we again felt that feeling of peace and contentment. In the 106 degree heat, we pulled off our shoes and sat on the banks. Our feet in the cool stream, was sat remembering the quiet moment when Paul helped Lydia find her Christianity. Magical.

Acropolis and St. Paul

Our last port was Piraeus. Homebase for anyone wanting to explore Athens. And at the top of the list for most is the Acropolis. The hill that holds the proud Parthenon is a mecca for so many. However, in addition to climbing up to the top, there is another stop for pilgrims: a rock. This three story rock was where the judges of ancient Athenian culture passed down rulings. It was here that Paul faced his critics and defended the resurrection of Christ.

We arrived early the day after we disembarked to get a head start on the heat and crowds. After enjoying the splendor of the Parthenon and the Carytids of ancient times, we made our way downstream against the morning rush and climbed the metal staircase that led to the top of the Areopagus. Here, Paul made it clear that he was on Team Jesus. He spoke eloquently to the judges who didn’t quite buy the whole thing but at least didn’t order his death! Not much is on the top of the rock but a sign to tell you a quick history and the feeling that you are stepping onto literal history. Just wow!

Lesson Learned

Our cruise was over and I walked away with an amazing experience that history found in books is all around us in real life when you are willing to look. While my path had me stepping into the stories of Christianity, there are plenty of moments regardless of the faith or interest you may have. More importantly, a traveler’s first experience with these kinds of magical moments allows future travel to have those magical memories too! As I continued to travel after this cruise, I found myself adding experiences to my pilgrimage. I’ve included some of them here.

The Vatican and St. Peter

By far, one of the most iconic pilgrimages for anyone in the Christian world is the Vatican. As Paul traveled, Peter on the other hand, went to Rome to face the Emperor and all of his might. He, along with others, was eventually crucified on Vatican Hill. Years later, Constantine legalized Christianity and Vatican Hill became the epicenter of the Catholic world. While the cathedral is amazing and the museums are world class, it is the religious significance of the Vatican that gives you the goosebumps.

Jesus said to Peter ” You are Peter, you are my rock and upon this rock I will build my church”. So powerful. It only holds true that underneath those words in latin painted by the incomparable Michelangelo, lies the bones of the very St. Peter Jesus spoke to. You can visit his crypt beneath the church by arranging to be part of a tour of just a dozen people per visit. By planning and booking months in advance through the Office of the Scavi, you can have that incredible moment to see Peter, the Rock. After, climb the dome to see those letters from the great artistic master up close for the full experience.

Auschwitz and St. Maximillian Kolbe

In another corner of Europe is a fascinating story of courage and sacrifice. While the Nazi death camp, Auschwitz-Birkenau, is most notorious for the final solution: the rounding up and killing of anyone who wasn’t Hitler’s ideal. While the Jewish population was the primary population that was targeted, quite a few other groups found themselves as part of the Auschwitz population. Among them was Father Max.

The humble priest wore the same rags as the others, and witnessed all of the horrors of the camp. His story is singled out because he begged to change places with a man who had a wife and children. The man was set to be starved to death in basement of cell block 11. He died from this sacrifice and the man, years later, attended his canonization at the Vatican. a miracle indeed.

The cell is still there and many who pay their respects at Auschwitz stumble upon his story rather than go to just see the shrine in the basement. A true hidden pilgrimage!

Look For The Moments That Speak To You.

Travel is such a fickle thing. One moment it tires you and yet another exhilarates you beyond your expectations. Travel excites, informs and brings peace. I am thankful for it everyday: even when I have no idea that I’m experiencing something life changing. It happens to us all the time. Don’t believe me? Check out the amazing David Suchet (most famous for his portrayal of Christie’s Poirot) on his journey to unexpected pilgrimage.

Pilgrimages can happen to anyone. It may seem like they only stand out to a select few but, with an open mindset, every corner of the world offers a pilgrimage of sorts. Regardless of your faith (or for that matter non-faith) a spiritual adventure could be the next amazing experience in your passport!

January 30, 2021 0

The Tale Of Two Waterfalls: Victoria and Niagara

waterfalls on brown rocky mountain during sunset

I was talking with my very best friend the other day and we were reminiscing about a very particular day from a few summers ago. Let me set the scene. My bestie was enjoying a little down time between Summer commitments and decided to take advantage of being close to the great Niagara Falls. She and her husband were hiking on the walkway when her phone rang.

Be sure to join us for the conversation! We are talking about this very topic on our podcast, Babcia and Yia Yia Travel The World.

https://open.spotify.com/episode/0A0QCeF4AsgzYczNgZb02C?si=N-XXpkkKQ7upn1hT5CFbmA

Half a world away, I expected her to pick up from home. I had no idea that she was at the Falls as I called her from Zambia. My view? The Great Victoria Falls. I was standing just to the side of Knife Point Bridge watching the Zambezi water spill over the top. Who would have ever thought that the two of us would be standing in front of the power of two of the most famous falls in the world at the same time!

Niagara and Victoria

Victoria and Niagara have a lot in common. They both provide a natural boarder between two countries. Both provide immense tourism for their local areas and both leave no doubt that the power of water is an awesome natural wonder on our planet. Moreover, both create moments of inspiration for every traveler that commits to experiencing them. However, it’s here that their two paths diverge.

Way over in Livingstone….

Way back in 1855, one of the most famous first tourists happened upon a place that locals called Mosi-oa-Tunya or the smoke that thunders. He promptly renamed the massive column of water Victoria Falls after his queen. (Ahhh… colonization.) These days, The Falls continue to thunder as they stretch just over a mile across and drop about a football field. They serve as the international border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and Zambia was exactly where I found myself the day of our phone call.

I was lucky enough to stay at Avani, a lovely hotel resort with free roaming animals and amazing Moroccan architecture. But, the true draw of this particular location is that it is just steps from the entrance to the Falls. The Zambian side of the falls were easily accessible to anyone though the National Park Gate but Avani literally had a back gate entrance set up for its guests making it as convenient as possible. And P.S., it was not the most expensive hotel in the area!

The Upper and Lower Falls

Without any other exploration except the ride from the airport (I’ll leave that amazing video below), I headed out that back gate and went right to the National Park. As soon as I was through the gate, a wonderful college intern offered to take me through the pathways and tell me the story of this wonder of the world. I live for people like this. People who have no other agenda other than to impart their knowledge to you and make your experience better.

My walk began at the upper falls. My guide, Isaac, led me down pathways and explained the scientific side of things as well as previewing the power yet to come. He reminded me that at night, there are hippos that love this particular spot and one must be careful! I will. I promise. As Isaac continued to lead the way past bubbling water that stretched as far as the eye could see, he pointed out the famous Devil’s Pool. Used by daredevils to get as close to the drop as possible. I had already made up my mind not to take that dip because of the aforementioned hippos and the fact that I can not do a back flip into water.

Isaac pointed out the visitors that were on the Zambia side had a bit more protection than the ones on the Zimbabwean side who had no safety rails or clear pathways between them and the 354 foot drop. No thank you!

While you could already feel the magic of the water in the air, it wasn’t until Isaac showed me the lookout over Rainbow Falls that I got my first glimpse of this massive force of energy. We continued walking around the gorge and into the pathways that become part of the micro rainforest. toward Jack Knife Bridge. This short span gives you one of the best views and ensures you feel your share of the water! It was in this very spot that I called my bestie…

Meanwhile, in upstate New York…

If Victoria Falls had a little sister, it would be Niagara. Standing 187 feet tall and about half a mile across, Niagara Falls comes in at about half the size of its African big sister. However, don’t be mistaken, this largest drop in North America receives far more visitors. While the days of honeymooning in Niagara Falls are over, lots of fun is still waiting for every kind of traveler out there.

Just like in Africa, Niagara serves as a famous border and has very distinct sides. The Canada side tends to be a better experience while others say that the magic of Niagara lies in its old school American Falls roots. Either way, there are plenty of amazing treasures to experience while you visit. And that’s exactly where Terri was when her phone rang…

Get Ready, Get Set

Terri drove in to Niagara Falls and made a beeline for the State Park. While the surrounding town is not much to look at, Terri says that once you park and get into the actual park, things are well worth your time. With plenty of pleasant and calm walkways, the state park gives you every opportunity to enjoy the falls from pretty much every possible angle. And it’s these walkways that tend to be overlooked the most.

Armed with a waterproof bag and a poncho to head for the marquee event, The Maiden of The Mist. Unlike many other waterfalls, Niagara allows its visitors to get behind the falls and see them from quite a different perspective. In turn, making it quite the draw. But, wait! Terri told me that you don’t want to miss out on the Cave of The Winds which, again gets you up close and personal to the water.

Terri and I had our laugh and spoke about what we were seeing in that exact moment. Then she continued on her way to The Cave of The Winds with a great documentary and tons of information about what makes these falls so special.

Top Of The Falls…

While Niagara Falls is not a foodie mecca, but the Top of The Falls may be a great choice if for nothing but the view. Otherwise, foodies will find better choices like great polish food. Or the famous Duff’s Wings not too far away in Buffalo. And PS- Buffalo has a lot to offer! Another great area is Lucille Ball’s hometown of Jamestown.

From anywhere on the American side, the Canadian side certainly beckons. And Terri agrees! Her advice is to sincerely explore both sides of the falls. Don’t miss out on the different views and experiences that each have to offer. Just remember, you need your passport!!!!

a large waterfall in the middle of a forest

Moments when you feel the magic around you and you feel connected to someone who gets it like you do are rare. Terri and I were over the moon to have a chance to connect from half a world away at two of mother nature’s masterpieces.

October 7, 2020 7

Why Is Travel An Addiction?

Over the years psychologists, anthropologists and other very fancy people have weighed in to answer the question: why do people travel? They’ve sited studies and research from their very fancy places of work and even fancier scientifically sound universities who spout out data about serotonin levels and charts about which countries give the best vacation time to their employees. There are tons of articles and papers that analyze the reason why some people have a travel addiction and others could care less. It’s all very fascinating! But, I think that sometimes the simplest answers are the best. I travel because it makes me happy.

Travel comes in all shapes and sizes these days. From digital nomads (we’ll get into that later) to resort junkies, we travel addicts have found our wanderlust being quenched in many different ways. So, what made people start to travel anyway? Where did the idea of modern travel even come from?

Addicted To Modern Travel

Well, the most popular school of thought was that the Victorians got bored and set off to see the great art and antiquities of the Continent through a term called The Grand Tour. In fact, it is The Grand Tour, created way back in the early 1600’s by a priest named Richard Lassels, that gives us the name “tourist”.

A lot of controversy has come up when referring to someone who is a travel addict as a tourist. Some take great offense as they see a tourist as someone who merely skims the surface while travelers tend to have more of a deep dive approach to travel. Me? I’m on the fence. I see the point being made but I wonder if it’s necessary. Maybe the more important question is whether you are a vacationer or a traveler. For the record, vacationers go somewhere to relax and veg while travelers (or tourists) go to seek new experience.

As travel has evolved over time, there have been large groups that have found their own travel mojo by approaching their travel experiences from different angles. Maybe you fit into one of these categories.

The Bucket Listers

We simply can’t talk about travel addiction without talking about the bucket list junkies. Typically uber organized, bucket listers work their way through a series of experiences that they prioritize. Often getting a bad rap as look and go travelers, bucket listers tend to know what they want. Bucket listing your way through the world can be a great experience as long as the list doesn’t become the biggest priority rather than the tool it should be.

gray and red train running on rail in between trees at daytime

Addicted To The List

Many people don’t consider themselves bucket listers, but they are. It’s true, basically every travel addiction has a list, even if it’s to not make the next reservation, every kind of traveler listed above has a strategy that can essentially be called a bucket list.

It is only human nature to check things off a list. To plan. To be a logistics manger. In fact, many leading fancy people who study others say that travelers get just as much out of planning their trips as they do executing those plans.

I’m not sure how I feel about that exactly. I mean, I like when I get my confirmation e-mail saying everything is all set, but I don’t think I necessarily enjoy jockeying between different travel apps to find the best price. However, I am very good at it. On the other hand, I do like tracking down new opportunities for my next trip. Then again, I get bored easily. I really meant what I said I wasn’t sure how I feel.

woman in black sunglasses and white shirt

The Package Traveler

By simply booking a tour through a well known company, package travelers are happy to scratch the surface of a couple of big named cities and take the tour while leaving the logistics to someone else. Quite honestly, this is a very good place to start if you are new to the travel game. It’s also a great place to stay if you are not a planner or details make you nervous in any way.

The Road Tripper

Pack up the car or the RV and hit the road for sites unseen and enjoy all that the open road has to offer. Road Trippers spend a ton of time exploring nooks and crannies and meeting up with fellow road junkies through a huge network. To be clear, road tripping encompasses not only the traditional concepts of hitting the road with the fam but also exploring far off destinations with a rental. Popular road trips include national parks, Australia, and the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland. Don’t forget great RV trips like Alaska and wide open spaces like Colorado and Texas.

The Gap Year Backpacker

Free of worries with a minimal budget, backpackers have trekked from hostel to hostel to get the most out of their bare bones trips for decades. While they shape their definition of global literacy, young travelers have enjoyed backpacking to form their world views. Backpacking across Europe used to be a right of passage in some circles and while there is still a steady stream of people making there way into those youth hostels, many opt for the experience on other continents these days. Backpackers are sometimes just realizing they have a travel addiction themselves!

While the majority of travelers fall into one of the categories above, there are some amazing travelers who look through a very different lens.

The Slow Traveler

Time in one place to take a deep dive into a culture or community is the top priority here. Slow travelers look for the connections and want to unpack the benefits and challenges that locals deal with. The benefits of slow travel come from immersing oneself into new circumstances and seeing where that leads you. Unfortunately, for most, time constraints tend to create huge barriers for the experience.

The World Schooler

Homeschooling has a very cool cousin and that cousin is getting more and more popular. World schooling is becoming quite a trendy way to experience all the benefits of homeschooling and take them on the road. Parents who choose this way of life to take care of their own travel addiction tend to have tons of work flexibility and dedicate this time to not only classical education topics but also to soft skills that create worldly humans.

The Digital Nomad

For the ultimate travel experience, digital nomads craft their careers into portable jobs that compliment their travel addiction. It’s like winning the trifecta when DNs find a career, a companion, and a course that allow them to wander around the world experiencing as much as they can.

While some DNs have a home base, many live a minimalist lifestyle and prioritize their commitment to travel. Some people take years to arrange the perfect exit strategy from society norms. They often sell off everything they own, take on side hustles, and save like maniacs to get themselves started.

MacBook Pro on brown wooden table inside room

What Do Addicts Do To Make Travel Work For Them?

In the end, we addicts are addicted to the people and experiences that we find while we travel. So what do we do to make travel work for us? A few things come to mind.

Learn a little. Travelers learn a few words and get a hold on the cursory history of their next destination.
Do stuff. Travelers favor doing over just looking at things from a distance.
Eat slow food! Travelers avoid major chains and frequent mom and pop shops.
Balance. Travelers make it a priority to balance great icons and hidden gems.
Think responsibly. Contrary to popular belief, travelers are some of the first to think about hot topics like waste, and carbon footprints.
Communicate. Travelers use international words like photo instead of picture and toilet instead of restroom.
Enjoy downtime. Travelers enjoy talking, well, travel. They enjoy watching and listening to travel. They play games with their kids to enjoy even more travel. to expand their horizons or quench their thirst until the next trip.

September 12, 2020 0

Athens 101

people walking on street near building during daytime

In ancient times, the goddess Athena looked after Athens as the patroness of the city. The small but mighty city crowned with the Acropolis has been the longest continuously inhabited capitol in Europe. It has seen its glory ebb and flow over not just centuries but millennia. So, what is it about this vacation magnet that keeps travelers coming back over and over again? What makes travel to Athens so appealing?

First Impressions

At first glance, Athens is not the prettiest city you’ve ever seen. With about half of Greece’s population residing in and around Athens, the overall urban sprawl of the place is staggering. Driving through the streets, I find myself asking why Athenians don’t see the overall decline of the area around them. Then, I realize, they are too busy living life. For Athens can be only defined by its people and they are- what’s the word I’m looking for? Kallos.

Plan Strategically

Athens is big. So big, in fact, it’s hard to envision covering it all in one trip. Most visitors (Xenos) focus on the area in and around the Plaka or old town. Making your home base in this area makes the most geographical sense as it makes probably 80% of your itinerary walkable. While some may say that this is the most “touristy” area of the city, there are plenty of options for everyone’s taste. If you do choose another neighborhood, be sure that you have transportation options easily available.Eat Absolutely Everything

If there is one thing that makes me look forward to Athens it’s knowing a fresh cucumber and tomato salad waiting for me. Let me be clear: my first meal in Greece will always be a salad with a fresh tomato that tastes like a tomato! In fact, the last time I was in Athens, I was reading an article at breakfast that was about GMO free regions within the EU. And who is on that list? Greece! No wonder the food still tastes like food! Just like any other country, there are familiar dishes like gyros and souvlaki as well as dishes you may not have heard of like keftedes and pilafi. Hear me now! Eat it all!!!!!

I’d love to give you a perfectly vetted list of authentic restaurants but, in all honesty, I’ve never had a bad meal in The Plaka. Instead, try Hermion for a quiet meal and Kazakos Pantelis for the rooftop view that tucks you right in under the Acropolis.

The Central Market

Getting your head around the food choices in Athens can be a bit overwhelming. There are distinct differences between the touristy menu and the typical Greek menu especially in the Plaka. A great way to learn more about Greek food is to visit the central market. With two distinct parts devoted to meat and seafood on one side and fresh produce on the other, you can get a true sense of what makes Greek cuisine so yummy. Getting there first thing in the morning gives you a sense of the energy that it takes to get Greece’s menus out to her customers every day.

The Plaka’s Treasure

Browsing through the Plaka’s generous supply of stores will keep you busy for days. There are plenty of amazing shops to check out. While touristy t-shirt shops will always be a staple, there are plenty of gems to be found. Some of the legacies that you will find deep in the Plaka include Jewelry Stores that specialize in Byzantine styles. I highly recommend Dimos Jewelry You will find owner, Stavros, making great quality pieces that truly reflect that Byzantine style that made the Plaka’s first jewelers so famous. Another incredible jeweler named Tom (Thassos in Greek) can be found at Old Orient Jewelry. While the name is a bit deceiving, make no mistake, its history is well founded in the treasures you find down at the National Archaeological Museum.

I’m Worried Someone’s Watching Me

It’s not your imagination! You are being watched by thousands upon thousands of evil eyes. Don’t let the name fool you, evil eyes are an old superstition meant to keep evil away. You’ll find them on absolutely everything from soap to pillows. Join in the fun, everyone buys them and has them in their house. I always look for the most creative ones to enjoy. If you are still worried, check out the beads that are strung to look like over sized bracelets. These worry beads are another Greek staple that’s well worth the enjoyment.

The best place to get your evil eye swag is at Helen’s which is just in front of Hermion. Check out this old school shop for all kinds of fun stuff to bring home and share. I’ve gone year after year and always have a great time visiting the owner. For more modern inceptions of the evil eye, check out the shops along Adrianou Street.

The Acropolis

While not the crowning achievement of the Ancient Greeks, the Acropolis is certainly the most famous of all the marble piles. Tackling a visit to the City on the Hill can be quite daunting without a little preparation. There are three distinct places to visit to take in the whole story: The Acropolis, The Agora, and The New Museum.

Honestly, I don’t think that there is any right way or correct order in which to visit the sites. The museum does a great job telling the age old story. Then again, the Agora does a fabulous job of explaining ancient daily life. Of course, the climb is so iconic that you may not want to wait. See what I mean?

Know the Controversy

If there was one thing to make sure you know before going to Acropolis, it would be the story of the Parthenon Marbles. Known also as the Elgin Marbles, this group of friezes from the Acropolis. Here’s the story in a nutshell: Way back in 1801, Lord Elgin asked the ruling Ottoman government if he could have his pick of the ruins on top of the Acropolis. The government said okay and he took what he wanted including 75 meters of the frieze. That seemed to be the end of it. Fast forward to post WWII Greece.

The modern and current government feels that the marbles were taken under incorrect circumstances and would like them returned. England is not a fan of this idea since the marbles take center stage in London. There are many twists and turns in this story and it is well worth researching. It will also explain the empty floor at the Acropolis Museum.

Make The Climb

It’s hot and dry in Athens during the Summer but don’t let that deter you from planting your feet high above the modern skyline. Here, at the top of one of the seven hills (just like Rome) that surround Athens. Stop. Take it all in. Take in this crowning glory of ancient times. Walk around the Parthenon and examine the massive columns. Envision that great goddess Athena in all her glory filling the space inside. Study the intricate copies of the Caryatids that have held up the porch of the Erechtheion opposite the temple. Check in with the restoration projects to see how they are holding back the erosion of time. It’s an overwhelming moment for any traveler.

Last, walk out to the Greek flag. Here, learn the story of Konstantinos Koukidis and why he is so important to modern Greece. Be sure to also view the amphitheater and the main gate to get a full feel of what this hilltop must have been like in its prime. I would say that climbing to the top is a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10. It’s the Summer heat that will do you in more than the hike.

On your way down, be sure to seek out a moment to climb the stairs to the rock where St. Paul talked to the Athenians. As in “a letter from St. Paul to the Athenians”. Yes, those passages in the Bible happen right at the foot of Athena’s home turf. Whether you are interested in religion or not, the stop is an interesting one to pause and think of time in terms centuries and millenia. It’s just astounding.

Get Out Of Town!

Athens is full of amazing sites and treasures. Just ride the subway to see that even when you are getting from point A to point B, you will run in to museum quality antiquities. Between the Evzones and stunning churches, and even a hilltop observatory, Athens has plenty to keep any traveler busy. I know it’s tempting to check as many museums as possible off your list and if that’s your thing, check away! But, if you are like most, you are probably wanting to balance ancient ruins with bougainvillea covered tavernas that overlook dreamy sea views.

If that’s your idea of fun, head south to catch the ferry to Hydra. This little, traffic free island has all the charm you can take. Enjoy the people watching and browse the little shops. Greece will not leave you wanting in the souvenir department. Most of all, pull up a chair. Order a drink and something delicious. Relax. Enjoy. You’re in Greece!

Another amazing side trip is to set your sights north toward a town called Meteora. World renown for it’s monasteries that are sky high, this little corner of the world is quite magical. Tour one of the monasteries and then enjoy the little downtown tavernas in the evening. This is a side of Greece that rarely get seen by the first time visitor.

If you plan to include the Greek Islands in your travels, check out our amazing post about seeing them here!

August 15, 2020 0

5 Key Travel Words For Mothers and Daughters

I recently had the pleasure of interviewing two travelers who adventure with their mothers- my best friend’s daughter, Kacie, and my own sweet girl, Rosie. We were chatting about what it was like to travel with each other. Our girls impressed me with their thoughtful insights and I walked away from the experience for the better. And with these girls, I have a feeling that they will continue to impress and enlighten me now that they are adults and women who understand the world. So what did I learn? Five words. Five words to make travel between moms and daughters the best experience it can be.

Tune in to our podcast, Babcia and Yia Yia Travel The World so you can hear the whole conversation!

https://open.spotify.com/episode/5RVmvC8bDyyvNwhAyTJaFI?si=yeNXmfLiRI2hMEKT64R0Yw

Word Number One: Respect

When asked “What’s it like traveling with your mom?”, our girls said they loved it. I have a strange feeling that wasn’t always the case! It’s taken time for our girls to grow into the amazing travelers that they are and for us moms to recognize that. I’m sure when they were kids, we moms really didn’t try to include them in planning and decision making. For some, it takes time to adjust our mutual respect so that travel is the adventure it’s meant to be.

As for Rosie, she was able to dial in on a very specific trip where everything just fell into place. We were in Ireland and she felt that there was a clear shift in how her voice was heard. She got to do things that she loved and enjoyed time on equal footing with mom.

Word Number Two: Acceptance

When we asked the girls about struggles when it comes to traveling with your mom, both of them had great stories to tell. I noticed that both of them were clear on the deference that they felt they needed to show as companions to their moms. The acceptance that not every decision is going to be in their hands sat well with them. I think it’s because they have enough trust in us to know we have their backs.

So, what are three inevitable things that you have to accept when traveling with your mother? You won’t do everything on your list. Sometimes, you will do something that’s not your cup of tea. Your mother will always try something new to give you an experience.

Word Number Three: Compromise

We asked the girls how travel activities have changed over time. They both said that we have gotten better at including them in the planning process. They said that while plans were good when they were little, over time, things have improved. As the mom, I thought that the key change was gathering input from them in a clearer manner. I always want to think about our girls’ bucket list experiences but I need to work on thinking of them more as an active partner and less as an afterthought.

Kacie told the story of going to Colorado and splitting up for the day to do separate activities. “I climbed Manitou Incline on my own and then I met back up with Mom and drove through Garden Of The Gods.” Perfecto!

Word Number Four: Resilience

If there is one thing that I, as a parent, can honestly say I appreciate about travel is that it creates some of the most resilient people I know. That includes our girls. I actively attribute their ability to adjust their course based on the travel experiences they had and continue to have. Our kids all learned how to shift gears and adjust effortlessly whether in the workplace or with family. Travel allows us to practice that skill of resilience over and over again.

What are three things to avoid when traveling with children (and or your adult children)? Over scheduling, over scheduling, and, most importantly, over scheduling. Sometimes we need to just go with the flow!

What are three things I actively seek out? I always look for one down day, something active like rafting or zip lining, and some sort of animal experience. That could be horse back riding, visiting a zoo, or seeing a sheep dog demonstration, puppies included!

Word Number Five: Experience

All in all, the thing that wraps all of our travel up in a bow is experience. With more and more trips between us, we have learned how to respect, accept, compromise and use resiliency to be successful travel teams.

August 14, 2020 0

Istanbul 101: 24 Hours

Travel presents itself to us in so many ways. From domestic to international, from road trip to cruise, travel never seems to run out of options. One of those quirky travel moments shows up in the extended layover-and Istanbul is a huge layover airport. Think about it. A layover is the perfect way to test the waters in a new place before totally committing to it. Moreover, layovers are the perfect way to see those little places that are often overlooked. (I’m talking to you, Copenhagen!) Even the great Bourdain chose to highlight the benefits of a layover with an entire series! Further, more and more of us travelers are routing our trips to include these little pop up moments in our plans. I know I certainly have!

Consider this; after booking a cruise (Istanbul to Athens), how could I possibly fly in to the re-imagined Constantinople and just hop on a ship? How could I not take at least 24 hours to explore this city of cities? Thankfully, I seized the moment and Istanbul did not disappoint! With a flight landing at 7 in the morning and my connection not until 5 pm tomorrow, I’ve got time to check out glorious Istanbul.

Spend the day with the icons.

Here’s the deal. No matter what city you are in, the icons are icons for a reason! And, while I could totally tell you about lots of back street finds that no one knows about, the reality is that whether you have 24 hours or 2 to 4 weeks, icons matter! And when it comes to icons, Istanbul delivers in a big way. In fact, five of the must sees in this ancient town are quite hefty. They are so important to historical understanding, they should be your first stop. Conveniently, these three gems are lined up in a neat row to help economize your time.

The Blue Mosque

Start at the mighty Blue Mosque. The Sultanahmet Camii is the official name for this architectural wonder. Built over just seven years in the early 1600’s at the height of Ahmed I. It’s important to remember that the mosque does not solely function as a tourist attraction as it’s primary purpose is as a religious center complete with a madrasa and hospice. This means that there are times when tourists are not allowed in. But on the flip side, I have been in Istanbul in peak season and there was no line at all to enter and enjoy.

All in all, be sure to time your arrival so you don’t have any bumps in the road. So why in the world has it earned the nickname the Blue Mosque? The answer lies in the tiles that cover the inside. So, leave your shoes at the door and walk inside. I highly suggest a guide so that you can appreciate the details like the subtle pattern in the carpet that indicate personal space and the calligraphy that is artfully incorporated across the space. (Ladies, bring a scarf for your head if that isn’t your habit.)

Hagia Sophia

Just down the street is Hagia Sofia. Take moment and grab a snack from one of the colorful vendors as you walk toward this treasure so you can take in the splendor of your surroundings. Then, enter the museum. Predating the Blue Mosque by almost 1000 years, this present day mosque comes with quite a complex past. As it changed hands from one empire to another and one religion to another, the sanctuary has acquired literal layers of history that have been peeled back to provide quite an interesting insight.

Again, a guide is strongly suggested so that you spend your visit focused on what makes the building a spectacular example of history. (And looking for the resident cats.) Notice the way the Muslim fixtures concern themselves with facing Mecca while the earlier Christian installations were obviously centered around the architecture of the building. As you leave the great church, take a few moments to enjoy your last moments on Sultanahmet Square as you continue through the streets toward…

Topkapi Palace

Just a 10 minute walk away is another Istanbul standard. You have entered the grounds of Topkapi Palace. This grand palace takes you back to the times of sultans and harems. However, unlike your last two stops, feel free to take the standard tour as the palace’s tour guides do a great job of explaining the relics and priceless jewels that all good sultans must possess. Take in the different spaces of the “Cannon Gate” Palace and note the amazing way the Ottoman Empire made it all work! While the palace fell out of fashion and the last sultans moved on, this UNESCO World Heritage site does a great job of telling the Ottoman narrative. Once you have finished soaking up history, it’s time to relax and take in modern Istanbul.

Soak up the modern Istanbul.

Istanbul has tons of historic sites to tour but, don’t be fooled! Istanbul is far more than its past. Modern, day to day Istanbul has a charm and electricity that is uniquely its own. With tons of neighborhoods to poke around in, there’s something for everyone. And life in Istanbul centers on its water. The Bosphorus Straights. Depending on your time, consider taking a ferry ride to get a true feel for how important this narrow slice of water is!

Take a seat in Ortaköy.

Tucked under the Bosphorus bridge, the Ortaköy neighborhood is a delightful area. Meander down windy, twisty streets that eventually open up to the water. Then, choose a table at one of the numerous cafes and relax. The choppy straights are right in front of you and the Ortaköy Plaza is full of life. While you choose off the menu, notice the local cats as they dodge the waves. Enjoy the evening in this little corner of Istanbul, soak in the atmosphere of houka and turkish dishes and let it all delight the senses.

Get your shop on, Istanbul style.

Start you morning with a walk over the Galata bridge. Grab a coffee. This busy bridge serves as the connection between the northern and southern areas of Istanbul. As you walk across the span take in the morning catch as fishing boats start to moor and set up shop. It may be breakfast time but go for a fresh fish sandwich from one of the fishermen that are rocking away on the water.

Spicy

Just a short walk away is the Spice Bazaar. The morning is buzzing with homemakers and chefs all jostling for the best deal. Quite simply, it’s a photographer’s dream. It’s smaller than its big Grand brother but well worth the stop to see pile after pile, basket after basket of all that goodness! Spend some time roaming around and when you feel confident enough, give haggling a go with one of the aggressive but amiable vendors.

The Grand Dame

Now that you’ve gotten your haggling confidence down, head over to the maze that is the Grand Bazaar. Lanterns, houkas, rugs, and turkish coffee pots assault your senses as you wander through the labyrinth of alleys filled with vendors and their wares. Take the bait. Go into a turkish rug shop and let them unfurl their stock with panache and show you how each rug is signed by the artist. You won’t be upsetting anyone when you say no. Someone will be along soon enough who will enjoy their new purchase.

The Grand Bazaar has been ebbing and flowing with Istanbul’s population for more than 500 years. It truly is the heartbeat of the city and can be enjoyed by and kind of traveler. If you love getting lost on your own, this may be the best place in the world to do that. Conversely, plenty of guided tours exist for those travelers who are more comfortable with someone to help them take in the scene. Either way, you won’t regret it!

Finish up your whirlwind of a tour.

With the small amount of time you have left, I have one more suggestion to finish out your time. An interesting, often overlooked aspect of Turkish culture is the Mevlevi Order of Sufism better known as the Whirling Dervishes. With a 700 year old history, these religious men, will share their prayer and meditation ritual with visitors. Check out this clip (about half way in) from Rick Steves for a look at how learning about these slices of culture is a benefit to any traveler.

Layover Logistics

You’ve done it! Taking in a city of Istanbul’s magnitude in just a day is a tall order. It takes a bit of planning and a lot of jet lagged time but, it’s totally worth it! It’s that moment of travel when you say to yourself “I can sleep on the plane”. There are a few tips that can make your layover a true success.

Over plan to ensure a smooth layover. Nothing will ruin your travels more than something going drastically wrong at the very beginning or end of your trip.
Consider making your layover an overnight affair. An early flight in and a late flight out on the next day will make the most of your time.
Be bag smart. Check your main luggage into storage at the airport so you only need to handle a light bag with your overnight items.
Research the amount of time you will need to get to and from the airport. In Copenhagen, you are in the city center in less than 20 minutes but in Istanbul it can take up to two hours. Additionally, be well versed on local airport procedures so you have a smooth check in process.
Give yourself a break. Extended layovers can become a marathon while you try to cram in as much as possible. Have a great list to guide you but, remember, if you don’t get to all of it, you can always go back!

July 11, 2020 0

Botswana 101: The Classic Safari

In this second part of my great African adventure, My mom finally meets up with me and we travel to Botswana to experience the amazing classic safari. I had only two hesitations about this entire trip. The first was I did not plan it myself. So, the normal feeling of “I know everything that’s going to happen” was not accompanying me this time. The second was “is this going to be a new experience or am I going to feel like I’m in a really big zoo?” Fair enough. I’ve put my best tips at the end of our adventure below!

https://open.spotify.com/episode/6EhOsjKkuVxnorSVFLHceD?si=eXcePncmS52OfSlIkPFqNw

Wrapping up in Livingstone

My last few days in Livingstone were spent enjoying the sites with my mom. We walked through the National Park at Victoria Falls and did a little shopping at the local markets. However, we were looking forward to moving on to Botswana and the Chobe National Park Area.

Crossing The River

In order to get from Zambia to Botswana, you must go through customs and cross a Zambezi River. Normally, this is an inconvenience. In this case, it was all part of the adventure! The Kazungula crossing point is famous as a commercial border. In fact, as we drove up, over 300 tractor trailers were lined up to ferry across the border- 2 trucks at a time. For us, we were expected to clear Zambian customs, ferry across as foot traffic, and meet our new guide on the Botswana side of the river. (This is a dying experience as the new bridge is almost done.)

Bakwena Lodge

The lodge that we checked into was an oasis. An eco-friendly establishment, Bakwena Lodge provided everything that we could possibly need during our stay. With 15 rooms that were either tree houses or round river level huts, Bakwena had every modern amenity we needed. The centerpiece of the lodge was the main pavilion with plenty of room to enjoy the meals, entertainment, and river views.

My mom and I settled in and the unbelievable staff began to explain how the lodge worked. It was amazing! The staff had scheduled all of our game drives and river safaris for us. They had taken care of all of our meals with a few short questions. Our room was a river chalet with gorgeous mosquito nets draped over the bedding. And before you ask, the bathroom was fabulous complete with an optional outdoor shower. What more could we ask for?

The Essential Safari Question

Will a safari experience be any different than going to a zoo? Don’t deny it! You’ve all thought it at one time or another. I mean, really, will it make a difference to see these animals on the plains of Africa or will it be a total let down? Hear me now: you bet it does. It is the circle of life moment you hope it will be. As animals large and small make their way at sunrise toward the river, you literally hear Elton John singing in your head.

Chobe Game Drive

5 a.m. The sun isn’t up and it’s cold. What in the world am I doing getting up at this frightful hour?! We make our way to the main lodge for a bit of breakfast and then climb by flashlight into the classic safari jeep. We drove in the cold dark with our guide, Max. Certified as an environmental guide, Max was the expert we all hope for. On the 20 minute drive to the Chobe Reserve, he knew every nook and cranny to see hyenas and badgers in the dark. Then he drove us into the reserve.

Max and his trusty radio knew where the latest sightings were and just as the sun started to show itself, our first encounter with animals was just around the corner. As we crested the hill, our view over the river was unbelievable. The sun rose as elephants lumbered toward the water with impala and kudu. Hippos were just gray hills in the water that let birds perch easily away from predators. Guinea fowl scurried along in long winding rows and every so often, a solitary giraffe peeked out over the trees. Yes, it was the circle of life and yes, it was worth every one of those 6,000 miles of travel to see it.

River Safari

Bumping through the bush on a jeep isn’t the only way to get out and see the game reserve. Our afternoon excursion was by boat. And it was fabulous! Our guide, Max, ever ready, took us along the Chobe river to learn and see more of what Botswana had to offer. We saw so much: hippos, crocodiles, plenty of lizards and birds as well as herds upon herds of elephants. Safari on the water offered a certain closeness that just couldn’t be achieved on land. Elephants swam right by the boat and hippos bathed in grumpy groups not too far away.

We stopped in the middle of the river on a grassy island where a few elephants were grazing. There, we enjoyed cocktails on the boat as the younger elephants edged closer as their curiosity won out over wariness. The sun set framing the fishermen leaving for the night’s catch as we rode back between Namibia and Botswana.

The most elusive animals for us were the giraffes, zebras and cats. However, Max was intent on making sure we were not let down. Early on the third day, Max got word that a family of lions was napping close by. Max drove us right up to the little pride that couldn’t care less if we were there. Amazing. They allowed us to take plenty of pictures and take in the moment.

On our way out of the reserve, we came across a solitary cheetah in the distance. It was an amazing way to wrap up our time in Chobe.

Meeting The Locals

Max was a guide for us for more than just the game drives. He also took us to the local shopping area. Half outside market and half modern strip mall, the market was a great change of pace. Even the little family of warthogs that trotted through the parking lot seemed a bit surreal!

We were also treated to a tour of the local elementary school. Of course, the teacher in me was thrilled to see all those smiling faces! I loved the fact that the lodge was a true stakeholder in the community’s future.

Our last night at the lodge we were invited to a performance that explained the history of the local area. I loved how the evening was full of dance and laughter. It ended around the fire pit with a glass of wine and a few stories. The staff was superb and sent us off with a wave and a smile. After one last look at our beautiful lodge, we were bound for the river crossing again.

Elephant Cafe

Back across the river, through customs, and past the hundreds of 18 wheelers wishing that bridge was complete, we were back in Livingstone with a few hours to spare before our flight. We decided to circle back to the Elephant Cafe and enjoy our last bit of time in this perfect corner of the world. I’m so impressed with all of the people we met on our travels. Africa’s great safari experience still exists. And it cares far more about the flora and fauna we come to see. Perhaps even better than it ever has.

5 Tips To A Great Safari!

Research, research, research! Understand the area that you are going to and the typical expectation for accommodations, security, and safari animals that naturally inhabit the local area.

Be flexible! Early mornings and late nights are all part of the safari experience. Be prepared that you will be off your regular rest and relax schedule. Be prepared to take a mid afternoon nap and eat at the crack of dawn.

Go Eco-friendly! There are more and more establishments that put the environment first. Often, they are smaller and employ local staff. They are worth it!

Certified guides only! Do not use guides that have not learned how to follow the rules of the preserves and parks. These guides are important not only to give you the experience of a lifetime but also to keep you and the animals safe. Most hotel and lodge guides are but it’s a good practice to ask.

Take time to meet the community! While the focus may be animals, it is the people you will always remember. Always. Meet, learn, commune. You may want to bring a few VERY small gifts with you to give to those people who have touched your heart.

June 10, 2020 0

Zambia 101: The Teaching Adventure Of A Lifetime

Where do I even start?

I’ve been thinking for years about how my teacher’s salary could get me to Africa. I mean, let’s face it, a trip to experience Sub-Saharan Africa was going to be hard won. I would have to figure out how to get there, experience everything the area had to offer and get home for pennies on the dollar. It felt like I would have to give up a ton of other travel in order to enjoy anything south of the African equator. One day, it finally dawned on me. I was putting the logistics before the dream and that never gets the job done! It was this kind of thinking that was keeping me from the very thing I wanted to do!

https://open.spotify.com/episode/6EhOsjKkuVxnorSVFLHceD?si=eXcePncmS52OfSlIkPFqNw

Time for a strategy change!

This switch in tactics was exactly what I needed to get the puzzle pieces for this great adventure in place. The idea of going to Africa was planted in my head by quite a few colleagues that I had the pleasure of working with while I lived in Japan. These fellow teachers were connected by an interesting circumstance. They had all lovingly adopted a child from the same foundation in Africa. As a result, they had all had the opportunity to visit at one time or another. I loved their stories and the unique, quick connection that they had made with Africa. I was definitely hooked. While all of their stories were great, it would be another fellow teacher that held the key to my African success. Her name was Alicia.

Alicia taught my son back in Japan and, like so many others, moved on from her time there to other opportunities. She and I kept in touch over the years via Facebook and I watched from a distance as both of us settled into new places and routines. Each year, I was pleased to see her update chronicling her time in Zambia as she continued working through an organization called Family Legacy.

Family Legacy

Based out of Dallas, Texas, Family Legacy is looking to leave its mark on Lusaka. This capitol of Zambia has taken a few big hits over the years. From political unrest to the AIDS epidemic, Lusaka needed and still needs a lot of TLC. I’ll just suggest that you google the numbers to see the overwhelming statistics for yourself. Family Legacy, a modern day mission model of sorts, strives to make an impact on the poor neighborhoods within the capitol. They provide a recipe of services for the very needed schools they have built (24 of them) to the quiet social service work that they partner with the government to accomplish.

Their centerpiece is “The Tree of Life Village” where about 750 kids live in about 60 homes centered around their school. Since the 2003, founder Mario Zandstra has spearheaded this single minded mission to help children through the word of God. And make an impact they do. Consider this: Mario was using a small piece of land to put on a Summer Bible Camp. Fast forward to the present day, where his organization is servicing over 15,000 children with schooling, housing, and care. As impressed as I was, I wasn’t quite sure how I fit in.

Use your skills for good.

I always hemmed and hawed when I saw Alicia’s yearly message. Yes, it was wonderful work. Sure, I could make a difference with a small act. The problem was, I really wasn’t being called by some higher power to go do good deeds in a foreign land. Don’t get me wrong, I was intrigued to learn about this work happening so far away. I was also very aware that Summer was my selfish time when I got to forget about all of my responsibilities for the most part and regroup. Did I want to go to Zambia to volunteer to do something I really wasn’t feeling? The tables turned when Alicia mentioned a smaller program within the Family Legacy organization: Teach One.

Alicia and her colleague Heather, were interested in bringing American teachers to Zambia to model lessons for their teachers. Their goal was to bring those elusive best practices to life in the classrooms filled with these kids that they tasked themselves with helping. This was the piece of the puzzle missing for me. I knew I wouldn’t be good at mission work, but teaching, I can do that! I found my place. This was how I could contribute.

Be a teacher!

Now, that was something I could work with. I was in. And then I saw how much it would cost to go. Ooof! This was going to take some planning and some convincing. Yes, I needed to convince my husband that this was a good idea but I also needed to convince myself. In all reality, the cost to go to Africa was going to be about the same whether I lent a hand or not. If I was going to commit to this trip, there was just no way to say no to those kids and Alicia’s program. I made my deposit.

Heading to Zambia- for real.

I get it. There are many other travel bloggers who go to Africa and can do a much better job than me based on experience alone. Here’s the deal. This trip could be my only chance. I’m not a professional traveler and this was a big deal, not another press trip. It would also be a family trip. My mom would be joining me after a week as I wrapped up teaching and turned my attention to more travel.

The travel experts at Family Legacy had arranged and approved everything on their end. One day in March, I received a packet in the mail. The enclosures really read like I was going away for Summer camp! I needed so many things! From sunscreen, a personal first aid kit, and teacher clothes to vaccinations and donations. I was literally allotted three 50 pound bags. This was not a carry on only kind of trip!

In addition, it was my Teach One responsibility to come up with several lessons to share with the school I would be working with. I struggled with making my teaching choices and peppered Alicia with questions. Based on her input, I chose to bring some “craftivities” for the kids to do with literature that was based on character education. I crossed my fingers and packed my construction paper and googly eyes. Kids love googly eyes.

The Travel Plan

As with any trip, we all want to make our travels be the best that they could be! This trip would be no different. I needed to fly through Dubai then connect to Lusaka. Once I finished with the Teach One program, I would meet up with my mom for a short flight to Victoria Falls and Chobe, Botswana just beyond for some fun. On the way home, we would stop in Athens to enjoy a little down time then head home. It was twenty-one days of adventure and I was looking forward to all of them. Thankfully, the FL team was in charge of the in country logistics making this huge trip seem even more carefree. I’ll leave the stories of airport check-ins, Dubai layovers, and airport customs for another time.

Sunday Market

Alicia was a sight for sore eyes for a weary traveler. We loaded up all kinds of luggage and took off to get settled and meet the other teachers who I was joining in one of the FL schools. We met in our very modern hotel and went over the week’s plans which started with a Sunday Market at the Tree of Life Property.

Markets are an interesting concept from a traveler’s perspective. Will the market be a slice of life like a fish market where the daily haul comes in and sold? Or, will the market be a tourist market where handicrafts and “authentic” items of local culture are displayed by artisans? Don’t get me wrong, both have merit. I mean, let’s face it, I like the hum of a food market like everyone else but I’m probably not buying a bushel of apples. On the other hand, non breakable artwork and Christmas ornaments made out of monkey orange pits have an appeal I can not deny.

Time To Get My Craft On.

First, I’m going to be truthful. I am all about the buy. I’m a sucker for the handcraft. If I can turn it into a Christmas decoration or make it a tablecloth, I’m good. Take my money. I’ll worry about fitting it in my suitcase later. I’m willing to make the most of this hilltop moment.

Handicrafts in Zambia consist of weaved baskets, woodcarvings, animal paintings, and Chitenge material. Chitenge is the fabric that is used as women’s clothing. It can be worn traditionally or sewn into modern fashions. My favorite booth was full of jewelry that had a great story. Mulberry Mongoose is a female led company that pulls poacher traps from the bush and fashions the parts of the traps they take out of commission into really lovely jewelry. The proceeds circle right back to anti poaching funds. Score one for the good guys! Sunday market time in Africa just got a whole lot better!

Lusaka

In order to get a true read on the kids we were about to work with, Alicia and Heather took us on a short drive through the capitol. My impressions of modern day Lusaka, Africa were mixed. On one hand, the tourism industry put forth great hotels and plenty of shops and restaurants to enjoy. On the other, deep set poverty was evident. Families were living in close quarters in neighborhoods that seemed cut off from the middle class world just around the corner. In addition, there was a distinct presence from China here. The construction and infrastructure all seemed to be funded by this outside source. When I asked about crime, the answer seemed to be “we have to guard everything because most crime is crime of opportunity”. Fair enough. I rolled up the window.

Good Morning Class

When a teacher gets a chance to truly step out of their own classroom and into the shoes of another, a certain renewal occurs. This was most certainly true of the little school in Ngombe. With students from ages 5 to 13, this school was all heart. It was clear that everyone was there for the right reasons- growth and opportunity. This was going to be a week’s worth of long days filled with great work.

I brought several books with me to share. “Howard B. Wigglebottom Learns To Listen” was on my list because we could make bunny ears with the little ones and have a great literature circle. “My Mouth Is A Volcano” was also one of my picks so we could model connecting science with literature. Last, I brought “How My Parents Learned To Eat”. That last pick gave me the chance to share a little Japanese culture with the kids. Something that Alicia and I shared. To say that it was a fulfilling week is an understatement. We glued googly eyes, made bunny ears and ate popcorn with chopsticks. We played games in the school yard and we American teachers learned how much this neighborhood depended on their school.

The Flower Man

The entire week, as we all got to know each other, I watched the groundskeeper as he patiently work on replacing a faded flower out of donated construction paper. Each day, he took a little time to add a petal or cut out a leaf. It was as if that flower on the wall bloomed to life over the week to make the little school in the poverty stricken area just a little better. It was a true metaphor for the work that Family Legacy was doing here in Africa. From just a few scraps he created a masterpiece.

From teaching to touring.

No doubt, teaching in Africa was an amazing experience. But, quite frankly, not many of you would spend time doing that. (And if you are, please click the link I left above!)I’m sure most of you would dig in to the quintessential activities that draw us to Africa to begin with. However, I must say that my experience in Lusaka lent an important point of view as I said goodbye to Family Legacy and Ngombe School and hello to Victoria Falls in the western tip of the country. Often, travelers are only treated to a “disneyfied” view of a country and do not experience day to day life with all of its wrinkles. While the Sunday Market may not have given much insight into daily life in Lusaka, my time in Ngombe did. That understanding gave me permission to view the more touristy Victoria Falls.

Suddenly Solo

The plan was to have my mom meet me just as I was wrapping up in Lusaka. The plan did not go according to plan. My mom was going to be about 2 days delayed and I had a little free time and a flight to catch to Livingstone. My reservations were for a hotel adjacent to the falls. Surrounded by Mosi-oa-Tunya National Perserve, The Avani Hotel is the perfect launching pad for the surrounding area. And there is so much to do!!! As you might expect, the town of Livingstone has plenty for every sort of traveler.

If you are adventurous, there’s zip lining and rafting. But, you may be more of a history buff, check out the small but good museum on the local area and the arrival of man about town, Sir David Livingstone. Then again, you may far more interested in the local residents and there’s a great cultural center for that. Probably the most impressive interest is that of the falls themselves.

The Smoke That Thunders

The great Zambezi River is unique for quite a few reasons. It’s crocodile and hippo population is above par and it serves as the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. However, it’s the 354 foot drop it takes that seems to win the popularity award. The Falls are awesome. In fact, all 5,604 feet of them remind anyone why this planet is so incredibly amazing!

I totally appreciated all of Zambia’s forethought into their side of the Falls. Especially when I looked over at the Zimbabwe side and saw people standing with no safety rails or specific viewing areas. Yikes!

Thankfully, the Zambia side of the falls, which is the largest, has a great set of trails to use so that you can view this wonder of nature. And, yes, the Devil’s Pool is there for those looking to see things from the very top edge. Take advantage of the great guides, be prepared to get a little wet, and revel in nature! Speaking of nature…

Let’s face it, no matter which of the choices above you may be interested in, the biggest draw, by far, are the animals. After all, what would a trip to Africa be without a few four legged friends?

A zebra has a drink with me at the poolside bar.

Livingstone is full of fantastic places to stay. I was lucky enough to stay at Avani. Located in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Preserve, Avani has access to both wildlife and the magnificent falls. Because the resort is located inside the preserve, wildlife including zebras, giraffe, and baboons all roam freely on the property and that is very cool. As I settled in for the evening, I was joined at the poolside bar by a few striped friends.

The activity desk, available at all the local resorts, had tons of things to do. From helicopter rides to river safaris, travelers of every age and stage have something to do. I was lucky enough to have one of the groundskeepers show me around and got a chance to get up close and personal with one of the giraffes. I also got the chance to zip line over the lower Zambezi which was out of this world!

Cover Girls

I must have 1,000 pictures from my trip. Half of them are of elephants. I didn’t mean to take so many pictures of just elephants but I couldn’t help it! Looking back, I think that they all know what a camera is and they have learned over the years how to pose. I was lucky enough to spend a little time up close and personal with these beauties at The Elephant Cafe.

This meet and eat experience allows you to combine a gourmet meal that’s sourced within 20 kilometers of the cafe with an up close encounter with elephants who stay under the watchful eye of a keeper. Each of the 9 elephants has a unique story that brought them to the cafe and it is a joy to hear all about them as you feed them and interact with these gentle giants.

Zambia was amazing. I have literally sat with this post for months trying to come up with a better word than amazing. I finally looked up the definition and decided that amazing was the right word. See for yourself:

So, what does a teaching experience in Zambia have to do with global literacy?

Well, it’s simple. The little connections we make along the way allow us to have a greater understanding of the cultures around us. They make the world more accessible and create bridges of understanding. Like this and want to see more ? Please like Babcia and YiaYia and share! We are a growing community a

nd look forward to sharing travel, education, and culture with you!

But Wait! There’s More!

This post wound up being so detailed that I couldn’t include the second part of my trip. Check out my adventure in Botswana with my mom. We went on a traditional Safari and had tons of eco-friendly fun! Click here to read on!

May 30, 2020 0

Coming In For A Landing

Home Base

The Paris Planning Primer

Museum Palooza

Art Attack

A Little Advice About the Icons

Notre Dame

A Little Advice About Some of the Smaller Sites

Get your shop on

A Sample Four Days

The Controversy: What To Skip

Day Trips and Transfers

Like this:

Sliding down a mountain in the Alps

Catch a Cruise from A Swiss City

Like this:

Istanbul To Athens

The Saints

Ephesus and Mary

Phillipi and St. Lydia

Acropolis and St. Paul

Lesson Learned

The Vatican and St. Peter

Auschwitz and St. Maximillian Kolbe

Look For The Moments That Speak To You.

Like this:

Niagara and Victoria

Way over in Livingstone….

The Upper and Lower Falls

Meanwhile, in upstate New York…

Get Ready, Get Set

Top Of The Falls…

Like this:

Addicted To Modern Travel

The Bucket Listers

Addicted To The List

The Package Traveler

The Road Tripper

The Gap Year Backpacker

The Slow Traveler

The World Schooler

The Digital Nomad

What Do Addicts Do To Make Travel Work For Them?

Like this:

First Impressions

Plan Strategically

The Central Market

The Plaka’s Treasure

I’m Worried Someone’s Watching Me

The Acropolis

Know the Controversy

Make The Climb

Get Out Of Town!

Like this:

Word Number One: Respect

Word Number Two: Acceptance

Word Number Three: Compromise

Word Number Four: Resilience

Word Number Five: Experience

Like this:

Spend the day with the icons.

The Blue Mosque

Hagia Sophia

Topkapi Palace

Soak up the modern Istanbul.

Take a seat in Ortaköy.

Get your shop on, Istanbul style.

Spicy

The Grand Dame

Finish up your whirlwind of a tour.

Layover Logistics

Like this:

Wrapping up in Livingstone

Crossing The River

Bakwena Lodge

The Essential Safari Question

Chobe Game Drive

River Safari

Meeting The Locals

Elephant Cafe